Places to Visit in Bhutan: Punakha Dzong

At the Punkha Dzong, Bhutan

Punakha is a stunning valley in Bhutan that offers a unique blend of natural beauty, rich history, and spirituality. Punakha is located in the western part of Bhutan, approximately 77 kilometers northeast of Thimphu, the capital city and 125 kms from Paro, the nearest International Airport. The valley is situated at an altitude of 1,200 meters above sea level and the climate is mild and temperate, with warm summers and mild winters.

Punakha is home to numerous iconic landmarks and attractions that display its rich cultural heritage like the Punakha Dzong, Chimi Lhakhang, Khamsum Yulley Namgyal Chorten, Punakha Suspension Bridge etc.

Confluence of Pho Chhu & Mo Chhu rivers adjacent to Punakha Dzong

Perched strategically at the confluence of the Pho Chhu (male river) and Mo Chhu (female river) rivers, Punakha Dzong is one of the most iconic and revered landmarks in Bhutan. (Dzongs or forts are typically Bhutanese and Tibetan architecture and normally have a mix of fort and monastery within it) After the confluence of these two rivers, the main river is known as Puna Tsang chu.

The majestic Punakha Dzong

This majestic fortress monastery, also known as Pungtang Dechen Photrang Dzong (Palace of Great Happiness), is a testament to the country's rich history, spirituality, and architectural prowess. Built in 1637 by Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal, the founder of Bhutan, Punakha Dzong served as the administrative and religious centre of the region. The Punakha Dzong played a pivotal role in the country's unification and has been the seat of Bhutan's government until 1955 when the capital moved to Thimphu.

Punakha Dzong is an exemplary example of Bhutanese architecture, displaying a unique blend of Buddhist and Tibetan influences. The dzong with walls up to 3 meters thick is reinforced with heavy wooden beams.

A vibrant courtyard at Punakha Dzong

The dzong's architecture is a testament to Bhutanese craftsmanship. Its intricate designs, vibrant colours, ornate carvings, and imposing structure are a remarkable sight.

 

Steep stairs at the entrance of the Punakha Dzong

The stairs at the entrance to the Dzong are extremely steep and one has to climb or descend carefully in order not to fall. Probably the steepness (probably they can be removed also) is for safety purposes as this is a fort.

One of the courtyards inside Punakha Dzong

The Punakha Dzong has a six-story central tower housing sacred relics and murals depicting Buddhist mythology including the Rangjung Kharsapani (Self-Created Image of Avalokiteshvara). It has twenty-one temples dedicated to various deities and Buddhist masters. 

Inside one of the temples at Punakha Dzong

In addition, it is home to over 500 monks, who reside and study within the Dzong's premises. The courtyards have intricate stone carvings and murals. The Dzong also serves as Administrative offices as though it is no longer the capital but as a District, it still has some administrative offices inside the complex.

In 1994, a devastating flood severely damaged the Punakha Dzong. A meticulous restoration project, undertaken by the Bhutanese government and international organizations, ensured the structure's integrity and authenticity. For example, the bridge you see over the river has been reconstructed with the financial and technical assistance of Germany.

The reconstructed bridge at Punakha Dzong

Dress modestly and remove shoes when visiting temples and monasteries. Persons wearing shorts, skirts, T-shirts without collars etc maybe denied entry.

Punakha Dzong is a truly remarkable place that offers a glimpse into Bhutan's rich history and culture. Its majestic architecture, stunning location, and historical significance make it a must-visit destination for any traveller exploring this Himalayan kingdom.

Also read:

Bhutan's Iconic Tiger's Nest: A Trek Through History and Breathtaking Vistas 

Dochula Pass: A Scenic Gateway to Bhutan

Dochula Pass: A Scenic Gateway to Bhutan

At the Druk Wangyal Chortens, Dochula Pass, Bhutan

Tucked away in the majestic Himalayas, Dochula Pass is a hidden gem that offers a glimpse into Bhutan's stunning natural beauty and rich cultural heritage. Located at an altitude of 10,130 feet above sea level, this mountain pass is a must-visit destination for travellers seeking adventure, serenity, and spiritual enlightenment.

 

Winding road to Dochula Pass in Bhutan

Dochula Pass is situated in the Thimphu district of Bhutan, approximately 30 kilometers east of the capital city, Thimphu. The pass is easily accessible by road, and the scenic drive from Thimphu takes around 1.5 hours. I visited the Dochula Pass twice, first on way from Thimpu to Punakha and then again while going from Punakha to Paro. Both the times, as I had gone in July the Pass was mostly enveloped in clouds so there was no clear view of the surrounding mountains but then the clouds made the place more mystical & serene. For one to get the views of the nearby mountain ranges the best time is from March to May or September to November.

  

Approach to Druk Wangyal Chortens from Punakha

As you ascend to Dochula Pass, the landscape transforms into a breathtaking tapestry of rolling hills, towering mountains, and verdant forests. The pass is surrounded by the majestic Himalayas, with the highest peak, Masanggang (7,158 meters), visible on a clear day. The area is home to a diverse range of flora and fauna, including rare species of birds, animals, and plants.

 

The 108 Stupas at Dochula Pass, Bhutan

One of the most striking features of Dochula Pass is the 108 memorial stupas or chortens, built to commemorate the Bhutanese soldiers who lost their lives in the 2003 war against insurgents. The stupas, known as "Druk Wangyal Chortens," are beautifully crafted and offer a reminder of the country's history and bravery.

The Chortens and the path for circumambulation, Dochula Pass, Bhutan 

 There is a path for circumambulation of the stupas. For the non-initiated please note that the circumambulation is always done clockwise in Buddhism. Only in Bon religion the circumambulation is done anti clockwise (Bon Monastery in Himachal). Each stupa also has a further four miniature paintings of various Buddhist Gurus.

Chorten with miniature painting of a Guru 

In Buddhism, the number 108 holds significant spiritual and symbolic meaning. The number 108 represents the completion of a cycle or a journey, symbolizing spiritual fulfillment and enlightenment; 108 is believed to bring abundance and prosperity, as it is a multiple of 9, which represents growth and expansion; 108 is often associated with spiritual growth, representing the many stages and challenges one must overcome on the path to enlightenment.

 

Miniature 108 Stupas at a roadside in Bhutan

Across Bhutan one sees miniature stupas (mostly in multiples of 9 and 108 at several places) placed by devotees next to a precipitous road.

Beautiful view of Druk Namgyal Chortens from top at Dochula Pass, Bhutan

In Mahayana Buddhism, a Bodhisattva takes 108 vows to attain enlightenment and help others achieve liberation. In Tibetan Buddhism, many mantras and recitations are repeated 108 times to purify the mind and accumulate merit. A traditional Buddhist rosary, called a mala, typically has 108 beads, used for counting recitations of mantras or prayers.

View of the 108 Stupas at the Dochula Pass from top

 

Near the stupas stands the Druk Wangyal Lhakhang, a beautiful temple built to honour the fourth king of Bhutan, Jigme Singye Wangchuck.

Druk Wangyal Chortens & surrounding area at Dochula Pass

 Also next to the stupas there is a well-maintained park having good flora and fauna. There are nine man made cave temples with each devoted to a separate Guru. Carry a binocular if you are interested in bird watching here.

Also read:

Bon Monastery in Himachal

Bhutan's Iconic Tiger's Nest: A Trek Through History and Breathtaking Vistas

Top Ten Restaurants in McLeodganj, Dharamshala

When you visit a place you also like to eat the best food available there. McLeodganj has plenty of dining options at affordable prices specifically if you are interested in Tibetan, Chinese and Italian foods. The listing below is not in order of preference or ranking but in the simple order that I visited them.

Blue Cheese Pizza at Om Restaurant 

Om Restaurant – It has a good ambiance and beautiful location and you can sit for long and enjoy the view of the undulating mountains. The Blue Cheese Pizza that I had was very good.

Thukpa, Tingmo & Phigsa at Norling Cafe

Norling Café- Not a very big place but has been maintained nicely. However, it has no views as it is in the middle of the market. The Norling Café Special Thukpa was good with lots of meat in it. The Phingsa and Tingmo were also well prepared.

Rewa Cafe

Rewa Café – They may not score high on ambiance, location or view but the Thukpa (Rs 80 for a mutton Thukpa) and Momo (Rs 90 for a plate of mutton Momo) score highly. The Momos were really juicy. On top of that they kept the hot water in a thermos for drinking without being asked. The Tibetans prefer to take hot water throughout the day to keep them hydrated and therefore keep hot water in a flask.

Commonground

Common Ground – This restaurant is five minutes away from the main market, has been beautifully done and also has a good view if you sit outside. They specialize in Chinese (not Tibetan). I had ordered Dawa’s Sweet & Spicy Sizzler (Rs 200 for a plate), Sha Tag (Rs 230 for a plate), Momo and Tingmo. Both the sizzler as well as Momo were excellent.

Tuna Pizza at Family Pizzaria, Dharamkot

Family Pizzaria, Dharamkot – This is not in McLeodganj but in Dharamkot. Lots of foreigners and Indians who come for longer stays stay in Dharamkot to do Vipasana etc. The walk to Dharamkot is also nice. The restaurant is located amidst a small orchard and one can enjoy the food in this beautiful setting. The Tuna Pizza and Tea that I had here were good.

Veg Cheese Bhakleb at Peace Cafe

Peace Café – This place is good for breakfast. The inside ambiance is good but the location is nothing to write home about. Has only vegetarian options. I am seeing that over the years more and more vegetarian-only outlets are coming up in McLeodganj as it is becoming fashionable in the west. The Veg Cheese Bhakleb (Rs 150 for a plate) that I ordered with banana shake was good.

Momo & Shapalay at Palden

Palden Tea Shop – This place has no ambiance or view. It is a very small place with just two tables. I has ordered Shapalay and Momo and both of these were without doubt the best that one can have in Mcleodganj. It was manged by just one person only who managed to make the food, serve, clean utensils etc single handedly. If you are not fussy about going to glossy looking places then choose such small ones to get real authentic and delicious Tibetan food.

Shifan Pautse at Kailash Kunga

Kailash Kunga – This place is good for breakfast etc. Again the ambiance and location are not good but the Shifan Pautse that I had were delicious.

Meat Ball Thukpa, Momo at the Clay Oven

The Clay Oven – The place is located near the Main Square and has very well done interiors with real live clay oven working where you can watch your food being prepared. The Meat Ball Thukpa (Rs 130 for a plate) was well prepared and the Momo (Rs 120 for a plate) were very juicy.

Chicken Garlic Steak & Dessert at the Carpe Diem

Carpe Diem – I had an excellent Chicken Garlic Steak with rice, chips and butter veg (Rs 240 for a plate) followed by dessert called Hello to the Queen (Rs 130 for a plate). The place is spread over two floors and has good ambiance, western music and is popular with foreign tourists. The place also serves liquor. Comparatively expensive place but it is still value for money.

There are several vegan cafes also coming up as the demand is rising for such cafes.

The food in all the restaurants that I visited was good and comparatively much cheaper than in Delhi/NCR. The Momo prepared by all of them are fresh and juicy unlike the ones you get mostly in Delhi. So be prepared to give some time for your Momo to arrive! The best point about all these restaurants are that either they don’t charge GST at all or is part of the printed price so you know exactly what you would end up paying at end of the meal.

Also read:

Things to do in Mcleodganj: The Kora Circuit
Places to visit in McLeodganj: Bhagsunag Waterfall
McLeodganj, Dharamshala, Himachal
Why I love to go to McLeodganj
Skywatch Friday - Sunset at McLeodganj, Himachal
Places to visit in McLeodganj: The Church of St John-in-the-Wilderness

Things to do in Mcleodganj: The Kora Circuit

I have been visiting Mcleodganj since the year 1987 but somehow had been unaware of one important facet of the Buddhist tradition – the Kora. Kora is a form of pilgrimage wherein you circumambulate a holy site (Parikrama in the Hindu tradition). In Mcleodganj Buddhist, young and old, take the Kora circuit around the hill that has the residence of Dalai Lama and the monastery and therefore considered holy. Surprisingly it is little known.

The Kora in Mcleodganj

This tradition on circumambulation is common in both Buddhism and Bon. However, in Buddhism the walk in a circle is clockwise whereas in Bon it is counter clockwise. Two famous Kora are the Mount Kailash and Lake Mansarovar.

Huge prayer flags on the Kora route, Mcleodganj

The route in Mcleodganj is well paved and away from the town’s honking traffic amidst pine and deodar forest. The route has stringed prayer flags small and large. Buddhists believe that the fluttering of the flags carries the prayers written on them onwards.

The Kora route has benches placed all along for people to take rest

If one gets tired then one can sit down on one of the benches lined up along the route. The older people do sit down to take rest and chant prayers.

Prayer wheels of all sizes on the Kora route in Mcleodganj

The path is lined with prayer wheels in different sizes. Some are made of metal; others are of wood. Some are very small and look antique as if they have been brought from Tibet while there are others that maybe be 8-10 feet in height. The prayer wheels are always on the right side of the devotee.

A Tibetan lady at the prayer wheels on the Kora in Mcleodganj

On the Kora route there are stones carved with the Buddhist prayer Om Mani Padme Hum. The stones are in various sizes and some of them are brightly painted.

Artistically carved stones with Om Mani Padme Hum written on them on the Kora in Mcleodganj

Apart from the serenity and the beauty of the path, the dense forest is a paradise for the birdwatchers. I saw several birds and one could spend several hours just observing them.

Kora route in Mcleodganj is a Birdwatchers paradise 

Langurs come down the mountains in winters and one comes across them in this area. Unlike monkeys they do not trouble people. They are busy with themselves.

Langurs preening each other on the Kora route in Mcleodganj

I liked the Kora circuit so much that I performed the Kora twice in three days. I thank my Tibetan friend who introduced the Kora to me and took me around explaining things on the first visit.

Prayer flags and prayer wheels on the Kora in Mcleodganj 

This route is, fortunately, little known to most tourists and therefore not crowded.  There is something special about it.

Wind carrying the prayers written on the flags

The cleanliness is impressive. Jute bags function as dustbins.

The serene Kora route in Mcleodganj

All in all the best part of McLeodganj, for the devout as well as the curious tourist.

Also read:
Bon Monastery in Himachal
Places to visit in McLeodganj: Bhagsunag Waterfall
McLeodganj, Dharamshala, Himachal
Why I love to go to McLeodganj
Skywatch Friday - Sunset at McLeodganj, Himachal
Places to visit in McLeodganj: The Church of St John-in-the-Wilderness

Places to visit in Manali: Jogini Waterfalls

At the Jogini Waterfalls

During my last trip to Manali I stayed at Vashisht which is about 3 km from Manali. It is less crowded and has better views of the mountains. But it was only when I had gone to Old Manali that I noticed from far off there is a big waterfall above Vashisht.

View of Jogini Waterfalls from Old Manali

So I decided to go trekking there. The trek to the lower base of the Jogini waterfall is an easy one from the Vashisht temple. Beyond the temple you pass through the narrow lanes of the village and then once you come out of the village the walk is very pleasant among the pine woods and small rivulets.

The trek to Jogini falls goes through beautiful Pine forest

There are a few eating joints also on the way till the Jogini shrine. The shrine and the area are considered holy by the locals. To reach the lower waterfalls there is a slight climb after the shrine.

The Jogini shrine near the waterfall

Majority of the locals and tourists come only to the lower Jogini waterfalls as it is easily approachable.

The lower Jogini Waterfall

At the lower Jogini waterfall I met a gentleman who runs a hotel in Manali who discouraged me to go the upper Jogini waterfall stating that it will take me at least 45 minutes of hard climb to reach the top as I am a city dweller. Fortunately I did not heed to his advice and went up the path.

The lower Jogini waterfall as seen from above while climbing higher up

The trek from the lower waterfall to the upper comes in the category of a moderate climb. On this stretch there are no kiosks and no water till you reach the waterfall so it is advisable to carry your own water and eatables. While climbing one can see the lower waterfall as well as the scenic view of the valley and the Beas River and the snow clad mountains. There are plenty of wild flowers blooming making your trek more pleasant.

The upper Jogini Waterfall

I reached the upper Jogini waterfall in another twenty minutes and was mesmerized by the view. Unlike the lower Jogini waterfall the upper one falls over an overhanging rock and therefore has a free fall.

Rainbow at the Jogini waterfall

As it was the second half of the day the sun created beautiful rainbows on the falls. The spray from the waterfall also cooled me after the climb. I spent about an hour there soaking in nature at its best and then it was time to head back.

Baru Sahib in Sirmaur, Himachal

Gurudwara Baru Sahib, Sirmaur

On the Solan to Nahan road hidden deep in the Sirmaur valley of Himachal Pradesh lies Baru Sahib. I had heard of it when I had gone to Rajgarh in 2008 but due to time constraint could not go that time. But this time I decided to go and see the place. I had not done any research on it before going and the place was a complete surprise for me.

River Giri close to Baru Sahib

From Rajgarh Baru Sahib is about 30 km and first it is all downhill till you reach the river Giri (a tributary of river Yamuna) and then uphill for a few km.

Baru Sahib, Sirmaur

I thought by the name that Baru Sahib will have a Gurudwara and maybe a township or village but when I reached there I saw that besides the Gurudwara there was no village or town but almost an exclusive educational township managed by the Kalgidhar Trust under which there is an Akal Academy, an IB School and a private University. Basically it is a venture of NRI Sikhs, mainly from Canada. The Trust runs Eternal University here and the Akal University in Damdama Sahib in Punjab. Most students seem to be from Himachal or Punjab. Some NRI students are also present. The main focus of the studies in Baru Sahib is theology but there are the usual professional courses as well. The undergraduate programmes specially are only for the women. There are several hostel blocks and all seemed full. The place had its own vibrancy.

Baru Sahib Gurudwara & the education township

The place is also called land of meditation or Tapobhumi. Baru Sahib valley is also known as 'Valley of Divine Peace' (and probably that is why the name of the University as Eternal). Baru Sahib was ‘discovered’ by Sant Teja Singh, a disciple of Sant Attar Singh, with the help of Bhai Iqbal Singh in 1956. It is said that Guru Gobind Singh, the tenth Sikh Guru, had also visited the holy site of Baru Sahib.

Darbar Sahib of Baru Sahib is huge

When I entered the Gurudwara I was amazed to see the size of the hall. It is the biggest that I have seen till now but otherwise very simple and not gaudy. The work on the outside is yet to be finished.

Girls singing hymns at Baru Sahib

 
Another big change was that there were girls who were doing the recitation from the Guru Granth Sahib. In another room I saw several girls taking lessons in the recitation of the sacred texts. There is a huge music drum (nagara) to accompany the prayers. There is a non-stop Langar in the basement which I also partook. The Darbar Sahib building is 6-7 storey high and has various rooms for various activities of the Gurudwara. The place has made special efforts to tap the solar energy and I could see several solar panels on the hills nearby.

Nagara (drum) used during prayers

The way from Rajgarh to Baru Sahin and back was laden with wild flowers and there were plenty of birds to see.

Wild flowers on way to Baru Sahib, Sirmaur

Also read:
Hidden Himachal: Rajgarh
Rajgarh: Pretty as a Peach?
Around Rajgarh in Himachal Pradesh
Wild Flowers of Rajgarh
Wildlife in Rajgarh

Hidden Himachal: Rajgarh

There are so many places in Himachal that the mainstream tourists do not visit or are not aware of.

Sheeps & Goats grazing in the fog covered forests near Rajgarh

One such place is Rajgarh, a small town located at an altitude of 1555 metres in the Sirmaur district of Himachal Pradesh. The town in itself has nothing to boast about but it is the surrounding areas that are bountiful in their nature and beauty. 

A fruit laden tree near Rajgarh in Sirmaur

Economically the area grows lots of peaches and in fact is also sometimes called the Peach country. 

Resin being extracted from the pine trees

There are wood and wood products like the resin and turpentine oil extracted from the pine trees. See the cone shaped receptacles attached to the trees in the above picture. Cuts are made on the bark of the tree and the resin that flows from it is collected in these receptacles.

A farmer carrying a tomatoes laden basket from the field

Also some commercial vegetables are grown in plenty like the tomatoes. 

A misty path near Bhuira village beckons you to its secrets

One can make Rajgarh a base for some beautiful treks including the Churdhar Wildlife Sanctuary. If you are with family and do not have the skills or options for a longer trek then you can do small day treks for which the area has plenty of options like going to the Bhuira area (Yes the famous Himachal jam maker Bhuira is from this region) or the Bhat-ka-Saina with beautiful meadows all around. 

A fairy tale picture? This is Rajgarh in Sirmaur

As the altitude is such that the pines are in plenty but the deodars have also started (though not big ones) the effect in the mist is beautiful.

A beautiful meadow near Rajgarh, Sirmaur

I went to Rajgarh close to Monsoon, 1st July. It was drizzling mildly and thus it was perfect weather. The other advantage was that we got Off-Season discount in the HPTDC hotel. 

A plant with multi-coloured stem

One could see all kinds of vegetation growing in the wild like the multi-coloured stem of this plant trying to camouflage itself in the surrounding area. The area was full of wild flowers. 

Wild Blue Berries near Rajgarh

I also saw several berries including the blue and black berries. Sometimes I felt as if I was walking in the clouds and at other times as if I was walking above the clouds. 

Wild flowering plant with water droplets 

The fog and the mist added to the surreal beauty of the place. The water droplets on the leaves after the rains were shimmering like diamonds. 

A fairy tale house?

However, in terms of food joints Rajgarh is not the right place. There are few eateries in town. The town has practically nothing interesting to offer. The Tourist Inn run by Himachal Tourism is located at a height. It has decent rooms with view of the nearby hills. It serves decent food. On the positive side, its rates are much less than the more popular tourist destinations in Himachal.

How to reach Rajgarh: Rajgarh is about 340 kms from Delhi, 100 kms from Chandigarh and 39 kms from Solan. One has to leave the Chandigarh - Shimla national highway 22 at Solan and take a State Highway road for Rajgarh via Ochhghat and Giripul.

Also read:
Rajgarh: Pretty as a Peach?
Around Rajgarh in Himachal Pradesh
Wild Flowers of Rajgarh
Wildlife in Rajgarh