Bharatpur National Park - a Birders Delight

A Snake Bird in flight at Bharatpur National Park

Barely 185 km away from Gurgaon, a four-hour drive can take you to the birders paradise of Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary, also known as Keoladeo Ghana National Park.

Flamingos & Ducks at the Keoladeo Bird Sanctuary

The best time to visit the Park is in winters when the place is swarming with migratory birds from as far away as Siberia and even Africa! 

A Deer & an Egret at the Bharatpur National Park

There are plenty of stay options at Bharatpur including the hotel inside the park as well as several hotels and guest houses at a walkable distance from the Park. 

A huge Sparrow Hawk at the Bharatpur National Park

Owls at the Bharatpur National Park

Best time of the day for bird watching is early in the morning as the birds are more active then. The entrance fee is Rs 50 per person. 

All the way from Africa - Egyptian Vulture at the Bharatpur National Park

Once you reach near the entrance of the Park you will notice that there are lots of cycle-rickshaws. It is a huge Park of 29 sq km. So it is advisable to take some form of transport. 

Darter & Cormorants at the Bharatpur National Park 

Mother comes to feed its Kids at the Bharatpur National Park 

Avoid taking a rickshaw from outside. Rather take one from inside the Park as the rikshawalas inside also serve as guides (they have done the guiding course and are experienced and competent). 

Flock of Birds being watched by Cormorants at the Bharatpur National Park

In 2018 the Cycle cum guide rent was Rs 150 for an hour. They also have binoculars for which you pay extra but it is definitely useful as the birds like to keep their distance from the tourists. 

A Glossy Ibis watching another bird at the Bharatpur National Park 

Several of these guides are Sikhs (as was mine) who were given land near Bharatpur when they migrated from West Punjab (now Pakistan) in 1947 at the time of partition. 

A Purple Pond Heron at the Bharatpur National Park

One can also hire cycles inside the Park but as my partner could not cycle, I therefore took the rickshaw for 5 hours. After that I let the rickshaw go and explored further on foot going on trails not visited by too many people. For bigger groups there are options of battery operated golf-carts and horse drawn carts as well. 

Glossy Ibis at the Bharatpur National Park

The rickshaw pullers cum guides know the routine, the nests and the favourite spots of birds and they can also identify them for you. Our guide knew exactly the nests of owlets, eagles and kites, snakes taking siesta in the sun etc. They also tell you anecdotes, so it is worth the money. 

An eagle about to attack its prey at the Bharatpur National Park

It is advisable not to hurry. See the birds and the wildlife at leisure. 

Kingfisher at the Bharatpur National Park

However, keep in mind that if you are going to spend a long part of the day inside the Park then do carry sufficient water bottles and eatables (please do not litter) as inside the Park the two canteens serve miserable snacks. 

Bharatpur National Park has a huge colony of Storks

Storks displaying themselves at the Bharatpur National Park

Let's take 'Stork" of the Situation

I sat for half an hour at one place and was rewarded by this - absolutely still like a statue -  Pond Heron catching a fish. It was a delight to watch. 

Nice catch - A Pond Heron with its prize - Bharatpur National Park

A Pelican at the Bharatpur National Park

Besides the birds that I could identify like the Egyptian Vulture, Green Himalayan Pigeon or the Ghuggi (in Punjabi), Common Babbler, Dove, Sparrow Hawk, Goose, Oriental Magpie Robin, Pelican, Herons, Cormorants, big colonies of Storks, various types of Kingfishers and wildlife like the Deer, Wild cows (there were some domestic ones also roaming around. Villagers get rid of unproductive cows by dumping them in the Sanctuary over the boundary walls), Wild Boar, Snakes etc. There were several others, which were a delight to watch.

Ajgar Snake sunning itself at the Bharatpur National Park

This UNESCO World Heritage Site incidentally was earlier was a royal Duck game reserve where the local royalty use to come and shoot the ducks as a game.

Perched high on a tree at the Bharatpur National Park

Purple Swamp-hens at the Bharatpur National Park 

Do remember to have good walking shoes, water bottle, snacks, good binoculars (if not then good zoom camera) so as to enjoy your birding experience!

Also Read:

Guda Bishnoi

This is also Gurgaon: The Sultanpur National Park

Sultanpur has more than just birds

Things to do in Mcleodganj: The Kora Circuit

I have been visiting Mcleodganj since the year 1987 but somehow had been unaware of one important facet of the Buddhist tradition – the Kora. Kora is a form of pilgrimage wherein you circumambulate a holy site (Parikrama in the Hindu tradition). In Mcleodganj Buddhist, young and old, take the Kora circuit around the hill that has the residence of Dalai Lama and the monastery and therefore considered holy. Surprisingly it is little known.

The Kora in Mcleodganj

This tradition on circumambulation is common in both Buddhism and Bon. However, in Buddhism the walk in a circle is clockwise whereas in Bon it is counter clockwise. Two famous Kora are the Mount Kailash and Lake Mansarovar.

Huge prayer flags on the Kora route, Mcleodganj

The route in Mcleodganj is well paved and away from the town’s honking traffic amidst pine and deodar forest. The route has stringed prayer flags small and large. Buddhists believe that the fluttering of the flags carries the prayers written on them onwards.

The Kora route has benches placed all along for people to take rest

If one gets tired then one can sit down on one of the benches lined up along the route. The older people do sit down to take rest and chant prayers.

Prayer wheels of all sizes on the Kora route in Mcleodganj

The path is lined with prayer wheels in different sizes. Some are made of metal; others are of wood. Some are very small and look antique as if they have been brought from Tibet while there are others that maybe be 8-10 feet in height. The prayer wheels are always on the right side of the devotee.

A Tibetan lady at the prayer wheels on the Kora in Mcleodganj

On the Kora route there are stones carved with the Buddhist prayer Om Mani Padme Hum. The stones are in various sizes and some of them are brightly painted.

Artistically carved stones with Om Mani Padme Hum written on them on the Kora in Mcleodganj

Apart from the serenity and the beauty of the path, the dense forest is a paradise for the birdwatchers. I saw several birds and one could spend several hours just observing them.

Kora route in Mcleodganj is a Birdwatchers paradise 

Langurs come down the mountains in winters and one comes across them in this area. Unlike monkeys they do not trouble people. They are busy with themselves.

Langurs preening each other on the Kora route in Mcleodganj

I liked the Kora circuit so much that I performed the Kora twice in three days. I thank my Tibetan friend who introduced the Kora to me and took me around explaining things on the first visit.

Prayer flags and prayer wheels on the Kora in Mcleodganj 

This route is, fortunately, little known to most tourists and therefore not crowded.  There is something special about it.

Wind carrying the prayers written on the flags

The cleanliness is impressive. Jute bags function as dustbins.

The serene Kora route in Mcleodganj

All in all the best part of McLeodganj, for the devout as well as the curious tourist.

Also read:
Bon Monastery in Himachal
Places to visit in McLeodganj: Bhagsunag Waterfall
McLeodganj, Dharamshala, Himachal
Why I love to go to McLeodganj
Skywatch Friday - Sunset at McLeodganj, Himachal
Places to visit in McLeodganj: The Church of St John-in-the-Wilderness

Birds in my Backyard

It so often happens that in the city life we hardly observe birds either due to the kind of life-style that we lead or due to their dwindling numbers. But when I went to my farmhouse I had the time and opportunity to observe them at close quarters. And mind you I am no bird expert but I did see several birds for the first time and others that I had seen before but not observed their calls or style that closely.

Pied Myna

Noticeable among them were Pied Myna or Indian Pied Starling. It was seen by me for the first time and it has strikingly black and white plumage. 

I also saw Purple Sunbird. Here it is seen drinking the nectar of the pomegranate flower. I even saw it just hovering around in the air and drinking the flower nectar like a stationary hummingbird or like a chopper! 

Purple Sunbird

I also saw for the first time Neelkanth or the Indian Roller Bird. 

Indian Roller Bird or Neelkanth

Brahminy myna or Brahminy starling is normally seen in pairs and seems as if it is wearing a black cap. 

Pair of Brahminy Starling

Woodpecker – have very strong bills that can drill in wood in search of food or for making their homes. 

A Woodpecker

Jungle Babbler - as they flock in a group they are also called the Seven Sisters and jointly they can create quite a racket by their combined chirping noises. 

Jungle Babbler

Peacock is quite common to this area and they generally become quite friendly and can even come and pick food grains from the palm of your hands. 

A Peacock

This Indian Magpie Robin was sitting on a pipe. 

Indian Magpie Robin

Red-vented Bulbul has a dark brown colour and even darker head and as the name suggest it has a red vent. 

Red-vented Bulbul

Of course there were several Rose-ringed parakeet or Indian Ring-neck parakeet or parrots in the area. 

Rose-ringed Parakeets

I was not able to recognise a couple of them. Maybe the readers of this blog may help me in identifying them?

What is the name of this bird?

And this one?

Also Read:
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This is also Gurgaon: The Sultanpur National Park
Birds at Katnalu Creek, Himachal
Sambhar Lake

Sultanpur has more than just birds

The Sultanpur Bird Sanctuary (also known as the Sultanpur National Park) is just 15 km away from the millennium city of Gurgaon near Delhi. 

The Sultanpur Bird Sanctuary

The Bird Sanctuary is a habitat for local birds as well as migratory birds that come all the way from far off places like Siberia. 

A Purple Heron in flight

But the place should not be associated with birds only. I was surprised to see that several turtles were nesting there (difference between a turtle and tortoise is that turtle live in water and tortoise on land. Also the shell of turtle is shiny black whereas the tortoise may be dull in colour). 

A turtle at the Sultanpur National Park

Initially I could see only something shining so I thought either it is a reflection of the sun against the water or some bird nesting. It was only when I used my camera zoom that I realised that on the hay mounds in the water the shiny objects are turtles. It goes without saying that there were fish also in the water body as I did see one Pond Heron picking up a fish. 

Nesting turtles at the Sultanpur Bird Sanctuary

Also there are several Nilgai (An Asian Antelope or Blue Bull) in the sanctuary. There was one bunch of more than ten female Nilgai (a female Nigai is brown in colour) who were very playful.

Seems I was an attraction for these Nilgais at Sultanpur!

I was able to see the Nilgai racing past me at very close quarters. 

Two racing Nilgai

The two males (males are bluish in colour and hence the name Nilgai) remained aloof and did not mix with the herd or with each other! What was surprising was that these antelopes were very comfortable in crossing the water body. Till now I had never seen them in water.

A male Nilgai. Also see a peacock in the left corner & a Heron behind the Nilgai

The best time to visit the park is in winters as that is when the migratory birds come in big numbers. Also the park is closed in summers for some time to allow the birds a safe nesting period.

Also read:
This is also Gurgaon: The Sultanpur National Park