Places to Visit in Bhutan: Punakha Dzong

At the Punkha Dzong, Bhutan

Punakha is a stunning valley in Bhutan that offers a unique blend of natural beauty, rich history, and spirituality. Punakha is located in the western part of Bhutan, approximately 77 kilometers northeast of Thimphu, the capital city and 125 kms from Paro, the nearest International Airport. The valley is situated at an altitude of 1,200 meters above sea level and the climate is mild and temperate, with warm summers and mild winters.

Punakha is home to numerous iconic landmarks and attractions that display its rich cultural heritage like the Punakha Dzong, Chimi Lhakhang, Khamsum Yulley Namgyal Chorten, Punakha Suspension Bridge etc.

Confluence of Pho Chhu & Mo Chhu rivers adjacent to Punakha Dzong

Perched strategically at the confluence of the Pho Chhu (male river) and Mo Chhu (female river) rivers, Punakha Dzong is one of the most iconic and revered landmarks in Bhutan. (Dzongs or forts are typically Bhutanese and Tibetan architecture and normally have a mix of fort and monastery within it) After the confluence of these two rivers, the main river is known as Puna Tsang chu.

The majestic Punakha Dzong

This majestic fortress monastery, also known as Pungtang Dechen Photrang Dzong (Palace of Great Happiness), is a testament to the country's rich history, spirituality, and architectural prowess. Built in 1637 by Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal, the founder of Bhutan, Punakha Dzong served as the administrative and religious centre of the region. The Punakha Dzong played a pivotal role in the country's unification and has been the seat of Bhutan's government until 1955 when the capital moved to Thimphu.

Punakha Dzong is an exemplary example of Bhutanese architecture, displaying a unique blend of Buddhist and Tibetan influences. The dzong with walls up to 3 meters thick is reinforced with heavy wooden beams.

A vibrant courtyard at Punakha Dzong

The dzong's architecture is a testament to Bhutanese craftsmanship. Its intricate designs, vibrant colours, ornate carvings, and imposing structure are a remarkable sight.

 

Steep stairs at the entrance of the Punakha Dzong

The stairs at the entrance to the Dzong are extremely steep and one has to climb or descend carefully in order not to fall. Probably the steepness (probably they can be removed also) is for safety purposes as this is a fort.

One of the courtyards inside Punakha Dzong

The Punakha Dzong has a six-story central tower housing sacred relics and murals depicting Buddhist mythology including the Rangjung Kharsapani (Self-Created Image of Avalokiteshvara). It has twenty-one temples dedicated to various deities and Buddhist masters. 

Inside one of the temples at Punakha Dzong

In addition, it is home to over 500 monks, who reside and study within the Dzong's premises. The courtyards have intricate stone carvings and murals. The Dzong also serves as Administrative offices as though it is no longer the capital but as a District, it still has some administrative offices inside the complex.

In 1994, a devastating flood severely damaged the Punakha Dzong. A meticulous restoration project, undertaken by the Bhutanese government and international organizations, ensured the structure's integrity and authenticity. For example, the bridge you see over the river has been reconstructed with the financial and technical assistance of Germany.

The reconstructed bridge at Punakha Dzong

Dress modestly and remove shoes when visiting temples and monasteries. Persons wearing shorts, skirts, T-shirts without collars etc maybe denied entry.

Punakha Dzong is a truly remarkable place that offers a glimpse into Bhutan's rich history and culture. Its majestic architecture, stunning location, and historical significance make it a must-visit destination for any traveller exploring this Himalayan kingdom.

Also read:

Bhutan's Iconic Tiger's Nest: A Trek Through History and Breathtaking Vistas 

Dochula Pass: A Scenic Gateway to Bhutan

Dochula Pass: A Scenic Gateway to Bhutan

At the Druk Wangyal Chortens, Dochula Pass, Bhutan

Tucked away in the majestic Himalayas, Dochula Pass is a hidden gem that offers a glimpse into Bhutan's stunning natural beauty and rich cultural heritage. Located at an altitude of 10,130 feet above sea level, this mountain pass is a must-visit destination for travellers seeking adventure, serenity, and spiritual enlightenment.

 

Winding road to Dochula Pass in Bhutan

Dochula Pass is situated in the Thimphu district of Bhutan, approximately 30 kilometers east of the capital city, Thimphu. The pass is easily accessible by road, and the scenic drive from Thimphu takes around 1.5 hours. I visited the Dochula Pass twice, first on way from Thimpu to Punakha and then again while going from Punakha to Paro. Both the times, as I had gone in July the Pass was mostly enveloped in clouds so there was no clear view of the surrounding mountains but then the clouds made the place more mystical & serene. For one to get the views of the nearby mountain ranges the best time is from March to May or September to November.

  

Approach to Druk Wangyal Chortens from Punakha

As you ascend to Dochula Pass, the landscape transforms into a breathtaking tapestry of rolling hills, towering mountains, and verdant forests. The pass is surrounded by the majestic Himalayas, with the highest peak, Masanggang (7,158 meters), visible on a clear day. The area is home to a diverse range of flora and fauna, including rare species of birds, animals, and plants.

 

The 108 Stupas at Dochula Pass, Bhutan

One of the most striking features of Dochula Pass is the 108 memorial stupas or chortens, built to commemorate the Bhutanese soldiers who lost their lives in the 2003 war against insurgents. The stupas, known as "Druk Wangyal Chortens," are beautifully crafted and offer a reminder of the country's history and bravery.

The Chortens and the path for circumambulation, Dochula Pass, Bhutan 

 There is a path for circumambulation of the stupas. For the non-initiated please note that the circumambulation is always done clockwise in Buddhism. Only in Bon religion the circumambulation is done anti clockwise (Bon Monastery in Himachal). Each stupa also has a further four miniature paintings of various Buddhist Gurus.

Chorten with miniature painting of a Guru 

In Buddhism, the number 108 holds significant spiritual and symbolic meaning. The number 108 represents the completion of a cycle or a journey, symbolizing spiritual fulfillment and enlightenment; 108 is believed to bring abundance and prosperity, as it is a multiple of 9, which represents growth and expansion; 108 is often associated with spiritual growth, representing the many stages and challenges one must overcome on the path to enlightenment.

 

Miniature 108 Stupas at a roadside in Bhutan

Across Bhutan one sees miniature stupas (mostly in multiples of 9 and 108 at several places) placed by devotees next to a precipitous road.

Beautiful view of Druk Namgyal Chortens from top at Dochula Pass, Bhutan

In Mahayana Buddhism, a Bodhisattva takes 108 vows to attain enlightenment and help others achieve liberation. In Tibetan Buddhism, many mantras and recitations are repeated 108 times to purify the mind and accumulate merit. A traditional Buddhist rosary, called a mala, typically has 108 beads, used for counting recitations of mantras or prayers.

View of the 108 Stupas at the Dochula Pass from top

 

Near the stupas stands the Druk Wangyal Lhakhang, a beautiful temple built to honour the fourth king of Bhutan, Jigme Singye Wangchuck.

Druk Wangyal Chortens & surrounding area at Dochula Pass

 Also next to the stupas there is a well-maintained park having good flora and fauna. There are nine man made cave temples with each devoted to a separate Guru. Carry a binocular if you are interested in bird watching here.

Also read:

Bon Monastery in Himachal

Bhutan's Iconic Tiger's Nest: A Trek Through History and Breathtaking Vistas

Bhutan's Iconic Tiger's Nest: A Trek Through History and Breathtaking Vistas

Tiger's Nest or Taktsang Monastery, Paro, Bhutan

Imagine a monastery clinging impossibly to a sheer cliff face. That's the Taktsang Monastery also popularly known as the Tiger's Nest, Bhutan's iconic landmark. It is majestically perched precariously on a cliff, 3,000 meters above the Paro Valley. This revered Buddhist site is one of Bhutan's most iconic and awe-inspiring attractions, drawing visitors from around the world.

The Tiger's Nest as seen near the start of the trail.

On the day of my trek I woke up to a rainy day so I decided to first visit the Rinpung Dzong (Dzong means fortress) in Paro and then make a decision, if the rain stops, to go for the Tiger’s Nest trek as else the trek may be slippery and slushy. By the time I reached the starting point of the trek at 10:30 AM it had stopped raining. It kept drizzling intermittently which actually made the trek pleasant as it brought down the temperatures.

Paro Valley as seen from the Tiger's Nest Trail

The journey to Tiger's Nest begins with a scenic hike through lush forests and along winding trails. The climb is moderately challenging, but the stunning views of the valley below and the monastery above make every step worthwhile. The trek to the Taktsang is ten kms to and fro. The Paro town is at 2200 Meters while the Taktsang Monastery is at 2950 meters so you have to ascend nearly 800 meters or nearly 2500 feet. One should keep the whole day reserved for this trek as it may take up to eight hours for the journey, including about 1.5 hours inside the temples. One can rent a walking stick if need be at the starting point. Alternatively, take a pony up to half way. Beyond that, the ponies are not allowed. Foreigners are required to pay a fee of Ngultrum  1000 (or one can pay in Indian currency as the same is accepted all over Bhutan.)

Waterfall near Tiger's Nest

If you are lucky then you can see the Tiger’s Nest most of the way or sometimes it is not visible at all until you reach it depending upon the weather conditions. With me, it played hide, seek most of the way, and kept showing itself intermittently.

The trek and waterfall near Tiger's Nest

Just before the final decent and ascent of stairs, before you reach the Tiger’s Nest is a huge waterfall enhancing the beauty of the place.

Taktsang has nine temples

Dedicated to Guru Rinpoche, the Tiger's Nest houses sacred shrines and offers a glimpse into Bhutanese Buddhism. The monastery's origins date back to the 8th century when Guru Rinpoche, a revered Buddhist master, is said to have meditated in a cave here. According to legend, he arrived on the back of a tigress, hence the name "Tiger's Nest." Over the centuries, the monastery has been rebuilt and expanded, with the current structure dating back to 1692. There are nine temples within the complex. Visitors are only allowed upto the eighth temple and the ninth temple is open to Bhutanese persons only. The cave is still there and I only saw it partly as entry inside is risky because of steep stairs and possibility of accident and therefore entry is restricted.

Perched on a Cliff- Tiger's Nest

As you approach the monastery, you'll be struck by its sheer scale and majesty. The temples contain intricate murals, statues, and shrines. The atmosphere is serene and peaceful, with monks and nuns going about their daily rituals. Photography inside the temple is not permitted. Also one is required to be dressed modestly else the entry will not be permitted. T-shirts are permitted if they have collars. Shorts, skirts etc are not allowed. Unlike some other religions one is required to keep the head uncovered and shoes are not allowed inside the temple complex.

The first clear view of the Tiger's Nest

The view of Tiger's Nest and Paro Valley, Bhutan

It is advisable to carry plenty of drinking water, snacks etc as there is not much available on the route with only one point where these are available (mid-way).

Lush Green Forest and Flowers - on way to Tiger's Nest

For foreigners having a guide is mandatory for the duration of your stay in Bhutan. Also, there is a Sustainable Development Tax. For Indians this has been kept at Ngultrum 1200 per person per day. For others the SDT is higher.  Indians don’t need a Visa but it is advisable to carry the Passport as entry permit is stamped on the Passport. Though some agencies would tell you that the Indian Voter Card is acceptable but invariably it creates some issues so my advice is carry the Passport.

Flowers in bloom - Tiger's Nest trail

Tiger's Nest is an unforgettable experience, offering breath-taking views, rich history, and a glimpse into Bhutan's unique culture. As you stand before this majestic landmark, you'll understand why it's considered one of the most sacred and iconic sites in the Himalayas. It's a challenging yet rewarding experience that combines stunning scenery and rich history.

Places to Visit in Sikkim - Khecheopalri Lake

Khecheopalri Lake, Sikkim

Khecheopalri Lake, also known as Khechuperi Lake is located in West Sikkim at a distance of about 32 km from Pelling. In Pelling I was staying at Rufina Palm Bliss Hotel and from there it takes about one and a half hours of drive to reach the lake from Pelling town amidst forests and multiple waterfalls.

View of Khecheopalri Lake at the ground level

The lake, situated at 5938 feet altitude, is surrounded by dense forests and forms like a bowl to accumulate the water of the surrounding Ramam Mountains. 

A walk on the periphery of the Khecheopalri Lake, Sikkim

From the last vehicle point, the walk towards the lake is serene and easy next to the wetland area and one can hear the chirping of a lot of birds. The Buddhist (and Hindus) revere the site and one can see many Buddhist prayer flags next to the lake. Since the local consider the lake as sacred so bathing in the lake is not permitted.

Buddhist Prayer Flags in the wetland of Khecheopalri Lake, Sikkim

At the path at the lake level, you cannot see the full form of the lake. To see the complete lake and the nearby forests one should make an effort and go up a steep climb of about 15 minutes and then at the top all of a sudden the full view of the lake and the surrounding areas is beautiful and mesmerizing. 

A cave used by Buddhist monks for solitary meditation 

While going on this climb just a few meters from the top is a small cave which is used by the Buddhist monks for prayers in isolation (quite common among the Buddhist monks to stay alone in a cave or room away from others meditating where there is no contact with the outside world.  (For sustenance, their food is kept outside by other monks, who then leave without meeting the monk).

Khecheopalri Lake, Sikkim

The area has dense forest around the lake. I had earlier visited West Sikkim nearly 34 years back (that time I had done the Kanchenjunga Base winter snow trek in this region) but after such a long gap also I did not see much deforestation. Maybe this is due to the very environment friendly campaign of the Sikkim government of planting 100 saplings for each birth.  

A complete view of the Khecheopalri Lake and its surrounding Ramam mountains

If you want to reach directly to Pelling then the nearest Airport is Bagdogra in West Bengal at a distance of about 145 kms. Pakyong airport in Sikkim is closer but has lesser flight options.

Places to visit in Ladakh - Pangong Tso

Pangong Tso, Ladakh

It is said that sometimes the journey is equally important, if not more, than the final destination. The same can be said for most of the journeys & destinations in Ladakh, an erstwhile province of Jammu & Kashmir and now a Union Territory. 

On way to Pangong Tso, Ladakh

My journey from Nubra region to Pangong Tso (or Pangong Lake), though long, was mesmerizing what with the clear green waters of the Shyok river and rivulets on the way as well as the moonscape mountains having different hues at every turn.

Shyok River, Ladakh

 

Changthangi, Ladakh

On the way I saw the Pashmina goats, also known as Changthangi (for the region they come from) grazing at high altitudes.

 

Yaks grazing, Ladakh

Then there were the Yaks feeling at home and grazing in the frozen pond and grass landscape. Yaks are at home in extremely low temperatures at these high altitudes. Yaks are sturdy beasts of the region providing not only milk and cheese but also as beasts of burden to the locals especially in winters when all motorised transport may cease in remote areas.

Pangong Tso, Ladakh

The lake at 14270 feet is 134 km long though only 1/3 is in Ladakh & the remaining is in Tibet. The lake has an endorheic basin, which means that it retains water and has no outflow. The lake completely freezes over in winters. Due to being endorheic, the water is salty and the Pangong is considered the world’s highest salt-water lake.

Pangong Tso with mountains on the eastern side

The photo does not justify the beauty of the place with the lake having multiple colours of blue, which is mesmerizing. One can just sit here and watch the lake changing colours – i.e. various shades of blue.

 

At the Pangong Tso, Ladakh

The hills, some bare and others snow clad add to the aura of the place. In summers, there is accommodation available here but after end-October most of them close it for winters though few eateries are still open in November.

Shades of Blue, Pangong Tso, Ladakh

You can reach Leh, capital of Ladakh by air or by road (long journey). From Leh you can book cabs/bikes. Travel in Ladakh is expensive because of long distances between destinations. Best time to visit Pangong Tso is summers but then be prepared to see lots of tourists trying to be ‘three idiots’. From Nubra to Pangong Tso the drive is about 270 kms and takes about seven hours. If one goes from Leh via the Chang La (at 17688 feet) then the distance is about 225 kms and take about five and a half hours.

Places to Visit in Himachal: Serolsar Lake

I revisited the Banjar Valley & Seraj Valley in Himachal after a gap of thirteen years. This time I stayed at three different locations in the valley. 

Serolsar Lake, Seraj Valley, Himachal

The Banjar valley is more beautiful than the Kullu valley and less touristy as it is away from the main Delhi-Manali-Leh highway. While staying at Shoja I decided to go again on the trek to the Serolsar Lake. Since I had driven from Delhi by car (it would take anywhere between 15 to 17 hours from Delhi to Shoja as the road conditions from Mandi till Kullu tunnel are not good) so I went from Shoja to Jalori Pass by car.

The drive from Jalori Pass to Shoja

Jalori Pass is at a height of 10280 feet from Sea level on the Kullu-Shimla route. I encountered patches of snow on the road and sides even though it was end-March and early-April period.

The Jalori Pass-Serolsar Lake Trek path through forest

From Jalori Pass the trek starts to the Serolsar Lake (also known as Seruvalsar Lake). From Jalori Pass to Serolsar Lake the distance is around five km and I would rate the trek as ‘easy’. However, it is advisable to carry sufficient drinking water and eatables as once you leave Jalori Pass and almost upto the Serolsar Lake you won’t get any place to have water, tea or snacks (especially if it is not a tourist season). I did see some shacks on the way but they had not opened for the season yet. The trek is through forests and therefore the walk is pleasant. 

Tried bouldering on a rock face on way to Serolsar

There are at some places huge rock faces so I did try doing some bouldering. However, I would advise against it if you were not a rock-climber.

A pond near the Serolsar Lake

Very close to the lake, there is a pond that collects rain water from the catchment area – so do not get confused and assume that you have reached the lake. This pond does not have clear water and has some weeds.

A view of the Serolsar Lake

The moment you see some dhabas offering tea, snacks and food you would realise that you are about to reach the lake site. The lake is in a depression with hill surrounding it on all sides to form a bowl, which is perfect catchment area for rain and snow-melt water to accumulate.  

A 360 degree view of the Serolsar Lake area

The first view of the lake itself is beautiful with clear water and surrounding hills still having the winter snow.

At the Serolsar Lake 

Like most of the lakes in the Himalayas, the locals also consider the Serolsar Lake holy. Therefore, it is advisable not to enter the lake for bathing or to wash clothes etc. 

Serolsar Lake with Budhi Nagin temple in the background

There is also the Budhi Nagin temple close by. Before starting the return journey you can have hot (and tasty) meal of Rajma-Chawal or Kadhi-Chawal and tea etc at the few dhabas located nearby. One should keep at least half a day for this excursion if one really want to enjoy nature leisurely. 

Even in April there were patches of snow on the Jalori Pass- Serolsar Trek

If you are the more adventurous type then you can try to climb the hills on the way and do some snow walking as well. My advice to travellers – carry good trekking shoes, water, snacks and do not litter. In case you are not carrying water etc then these can be bought at the Jalori Pass as it has few shops and dhabas.

Top Ten Restaurants in McLeodganj, Dharamshala

When you visit a place you also like to eat the best food available there. McLeodganj has plenty of dining options at affordable prices specifically if you are interested in Tibetan, Chinese and Italian foods. The listing below is not in order of preference or ranking but in the simple order that I visited them.

Blue Cheese Pizza at Om Restaurant 

Om Restaurant – It has a good ambiance and beautiful location and you can sit for long and enjoy the view of the undulating mountains. The Blue Cheese Pizza that I had was very good.

Thukpa, Tingmo & Phigsa at Norling Cafe

Norling Café- Not a very big place but has been maintained nicely. However, it has no views as it is in the middle of the market. The Norling Café Special Thukpa was good with lots of meat in it. The Phingsa and Tingmo were also well prepared.

Rewa Cafe

Rewa Café – They may not score high on ambiance, location or view but the Thukpa (Rs 80 for a mutton Thukpa) and Momo (Rs 90 for a plate of mutton Momo) score highly. The Momos were really juicy. On top of that they kept the hot water in a thermos for drinking without being asked. The Tibetans prefer to take hot water throughout the day to keep them hydrated and therefore keep hot water in a flask.

Commonground

Common Ground – This restaurant is five minutes away from the main market, has been beautifully done and also has a good view if you sit outside. They specialize in Chinese (not Tibetan). I had ordered Dawa’s Sweet & Spicy Sizzler (Rs 200 for a plate), Sha Tag (Rs 230 for a plate), Momo and Tingmo. Both the sizzler as well as Momo were excellent.

Tuna Pizza at Family Pizzaria, Dharamkot

Family Pizzaria, Dharamkot – This is not in McLeodganj but in Dharamkot. Lots of foreigners and Indians who come for longer stays stay in Dharamkot to do Vipasana etc. The walk to Dharamkot is also nice. The restaurant is located amidst a small orchard and one can enjoy the food in this beautiful setting. The Tuna Pizza and Tea that I had here were good.

Veg Cheese Bhakleb at Peace Cafe

Peace Café – This place is good for breakfast. The inside ambiance is good but the location is nothing to write home about. Has only vegetarian options. I am seeing that over the years more and more vegetarian-only outlets are coming up in McLeodganj as it is becoming fashionable in the west. The Veg Cheese Bhakleb (Rs 150 for a plate) that I ordered with banana shake was good.

Momo & Shapalay at Palden

Palden Tea Shop – This place has no ambiance or view. It is a very small place with just two tables. I has ordered Shapalay and Momo and both of these were without doubt the best that one can have in Mcleodganj. It was manged by just one person only who managed to make the food, serve, clean utensils etc single handedly. If you are not fussy about going to glossy looking places then choose such small ones to get real authentic and delicious Tibetan food.

Shifan Pautse at Kailash Kunga

Kailash Kunga – This place is good for breakfast etc. Again the ambiance and location are not good but the Shifan Pautse that I had were delicious.

Meat Ball Thukpa, Momo at the Clay Oven

The Clay Oven – The place is located near the Main Square and has very well done interiors with real live clay oven working where you can watch your food being prepared. The Meat Ball Thukpa (Rs 130 for a plate) was well prepared and the Momo (Rs 120 for a plate) were very juicy.

Chicken Garlic Steak & Dessert at the Carpe Diem

Carpe Diem – I had an excellent Chicken Garlic Steak with rice, chips and butter veg (Rs 240 for a plate) followed by dessert called Hello to the Queen (Rs 130 for a plate). The place is spread over two floors and has good ambiance, western music and is popular with foreign tourists. The place also serves liquor. Comparatively expensive place but it is still value for money.

There are several vegan cafes also coming up as the demand is rising for such cafes.

The food in all the restaurants that I visited was good and comparatively much cheaper than in Delhi/NCR. The Momo prepared by all of them are fresh and juicy unlike the ones you get mostly in Delhi. So be prepared to give some time for your Momo to arrive! The best point about all these restaurants are that either they don’t charge GST at all or is part of the printed price so you know exactly what you would end up paying at end of the meal.

Also read:

Things to do in Mcleodganj: The Kora Circuit
Places to visit in McLeodganj: Bhagsunag Waterfall
McLeodganj, Dharamshala, Himachal
Why I love to go to McLeodganj
Skywatch Friday - Sunset at McLeodganj, Himachal
Places to visit in McLeodganj: The Church of St John-in-the-Wilderness