A Natural Reservoir in Nalhar, Nuh

When I was visiting the Cenotaph of Chui Mal I was suggested by Mr Chander Bhan who manages the cenotaph and the pond to also visit Nalhar (also pronounced as Nallad) a nearby village where there is a natural reservoir.

Ceremonial Gate to Shiva Temple, Nalhar

Nalhar is located in the foothills of the Aravallis and also has at its base a Shiva temple which forms the starting point of the trek to the reservoir. There is a big ceremonial gate at the temple. 

The Climb to the Nalhar reservoir

There are more than 250 steep stair-steps to be climbed to the place and the last bit is a bit slippery and one has to hold on to the tree roots and branches to climb. It is a good climb if you are looking for some good exercise and once you reach the top it provides a view of the whole area. 

The view of the Mewat area from Nalhar reservoir

I was expecting a big reservoir but when I reached there I found that the water was trickling directly into a hollow created (natural) in the tree from the rock. This reservoir is about 2 feet long and maybe a foot wide only. 

Last part of the climb

The water keeps flowing round the year into this hollow and this is the reservoir that people locally talk with veneration as it is believed by locals that it is some ‘chamatkar’ (miracle) of the gods that water is flowing out of the rocks in this arid region. Of course we as geographers know better! 

The Nalhar reservoir in a hollow of a tree

It is also believed that the Panadavas stayed there and drank this water during their 14-year exile. Lot of locals travel till the Shiva temple but only the more determined and fit people climb up to the reservoir. 

One has to hold the tree branches above these stairs to climb

How to reach: From Rajiv Chowk in Gurgaon take the Sohna-Nuh-Alwar highway till Nuh for about 47 km. From Nuh it is about 3 km to the Nalhar Shiva temple and the road ends there.

Also read:
The Cenotaph of Chui Mal in Nuh
Chui Mal Ka Talaab in Nuh
Shaking Minarets in Nuh

Shaking Minarets in Nuh

Just an hour away from Delhi is a mosque that has shaking minarets!

Gateway of the Tomb of Sheikh Musa, Nuh

This place has a tomb of Sheikh Musa, a mosque as well as a Madrasa. To reach there one has to take the Gurgaon-Nuh road via Sohna and at Nuh take the Toaru road. It is not very far from Nuh town and is part of the Mewat rural belt.

Mughal Style arches

The structure has a mix of Mughal and Rajput architecture and was built sometime in the 14th century. The walls of the gateway to the tomb are very thick and the stairs steep. It is said that if you shake one minar the vibrations are felt in the other minar. 

Rajputana style of architecture

I was not able to test this as the Waqf Board had closed the Minars for repairs stating that it is dangerous and can fall any time. I think such an old building should be repaired not by basic methods and should be dealt with by the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) as it is an important heritage site of this region. The whole repair work being carried out is not being done by professionals.

The Tomb of Sheikh Musa

The tomb is made of white marble and the outer walls are also white. The locals believe that the water receptacle at the tomb have healing powers. 

The mosque

Within the same compound I also saw that there is a madrasa where religious teachings are imparted to the students. 

A student of Madrasa showed me the place

I did interact with a couple of students from the Madrasa who in fact showed me around the place. But right in front of this complex there is also a modern building of Mewat Engineering College which is also run by the Waqf Board.

Ruins of a Haveli visible from Sheikh Musa Tomb

From this complex one can also see high on the hill ruins of a haveli (said to be of a local merchant).

Also read:
Chui Mal Ka Talaab in Nuh
The Cenotaph of Chui Mal in Nuh

Chui Mal Ka Talaab in Nuh

Chui Mal ka Taalab is a masonry pond with cenotaphs located in the town of Nuh in the Mewat district of Haryana.

Chui Mal ka Talaab (pond), Nuh

Adjoining it is a grand two-storied structure, the Cenotaph of Seth Chui Mal. Both the pond and the Samadhi (memorial) have been built around the same time by Chui Mal. Of course the tomb in the structure was placed after his death by his son.

The pond in the foreground & the Cenotaph of Chui Mal in the background

The pond has eight cenotaphs around it and looks picturesque. During my talks with the owners of the property (no, it is not under State Government or the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) but privately owned by the descendants of Chui Mal) I was told that all the burj (the structure beneath the Chattri or the cenotaph) have wells underneath and therefore there is always water in the pond.

Another view of the Pond of Chui Mal in Nuh

Also during Monsoons the pond gets filled with water flowing from nearby areas. But this is changing as now people have cut plots around this place.

The beautiful pond littered with polybags

Unfortunately the open area is subjected to decay and misuse. There are plastic bags in the pond and as usual locals have scribbled their names on the cenotaphs.

A well at Chui Mal ka Talaab filled with plastic bags

I think it is imperative that the heritage properties, the Cenotaph of Chui Mal as well as the Chui Mal ka Talaab, are taken over by the State Government or ASI for despite the best intentions, the Chui Mal family cannot be expected to maintain sites in the long run as that is a skilled and expensive task.

The view of the Chui Mal ka Talaab in the background with Chattri of the memorial of Chui Mal in the foreground

Both the cenotaphs and the masonry pond are worth seeing places. Offbeat places have a charm of their own. These are sightseeing places for Delhlites and Gurgaonites looking for an outing over the weekend.

This post is part of Skywatch Friday.

Also Read:

The Cenotaph of Chui Mal in Nuh
Water Tank at City Palace, Alwar
Cenotaph of Bakhtawar Singh of Alwar

The Cenotaph of Chui Mal in Nuh

Adjoining the Chui Mal Talaab (pond) is a large two-storied structure, the Samadhi (tomb) of Seth Chui Mal. According to Chander Bhan, now a retired teacher, these magnificent structures were built by his forefathers seven generations ago.

Cenotaph of Chui Mal in Nuh

This structure has surprisingly got very little publicity despite its proximity to Delhi and Gurgaon. Located in the Nuh town of the Mewat district of Haryana, 75 min drive from Gurgaon, the 300-year old structure reminds you of cenotaphs of Rajasthan.

The Samadhi (tomb) of Seth Chui Mal

It has beautiful engravings on the first floor with a variety of motifs – soldiers, dancing girls, men playing musical instruments, processions of men and women, elephants, lions and deer. The ground floor also had engravings etc but with time they were completely destroyed by vandals. Now the ground floor has been repaired with cement arches only.

Engraved Antelopes & others in flight 

Particularly fascinating for me was a carved piece of a deer/antelope that captures the animal in motion with its legs in the air and head turned back − the the hunted looking at the hunter.

Engraved soldier with Rifle

Some other engraved figures that surprised me were of soldiers in uniform carrying rifles on their shoulders. From the uniform it was obvious that they were from the British-Indian army. Most unusual I must say!

The interior of the upper floor of the Chui Mal cenotaph

The structure was subjected to neglect and vandalism till Mr Chander Bhan and his brother took matters in their hands and built a brick wall around it. It is their family legacy after all! The wall sadly blocks somewhat the frontal view but then these are two individuals trying to protect and preserve these beautiful structures. The Government of Haryana or the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) is conspicuous by its absence.

The inside of the majestic dome of the cenotaph of Chui Mal

The architecture is definitely Rajasthani and infact there are similarities in the cenotaph (or Chattri) of Chui Mal with those of the Cenotaph of Bakhtawar Singh of Alwar.

The carved pillars on the upper floor of Cenotaph of Chui Mal

Infact like at Alwar here also there is a water pond next to this cenotaph but then I am going to write a separate post on that soon.

The Rajasthani style architecture of the Chui Mal Cenotaph

For those interested in visiting these structures, keys are with Mr Chander Bhan who lives in the house nearby. You may even be served tea by the extremely nice family members that include Chander Bhan’s grandchildren who are now studying in Delhi. They gave us a guided tour.

Mr Chander Bhan, the 7th generation descendant of Chui Mal

Seth Chui Mal was a salt merchant and had built most of this cenotaph as well as the water pond during his life time itself though finally it was completed by his son Hukam Chand

Must see for those who look beyond the mainstream tourism!

Also See:

Cenotaph of Bakhtawar Singh of Alwar

Sethani Ki Chattri