Is it is mosque or a temple or a gurudwara?

When I initially looked at this structure in Farrukhnagar from a back lane I thought it must be a mosque and that also at least from the pre-partition days.

A Mosque like structure, Farrukhnagar

So I decided to have a look at it. When I entered the lane from the front of this building I was astonished to see the gate at its compound proclaiming it to be Sita Ram Mandir (temple). Though the gate of the premises was open but the entry to the main structure was closed. So I made some efforts to track down the caretaker of the place which turned out to be the Pujari (Hindu priest) of the said temple. He first refused to open it as he said it opens only in the morning and evening but after some persuasion agreed to open it. While entering I just rang the huge bell hanging at the entrance which offended the priest who kind of scolded me for doing so. When I asked the reason he said that afternoon is the time when the gods are sleeping and by ringing the bell I am disturbing them! I wondered if the gods sleep at particular time and people know of it then they would commit all kinds of offenses (in the eye of the god) during that period to get away from persecution from god!

Gate proclaiming it to be Sita Ram temple

Anyhow, when I went inside I was further astonished to see that the place of worship was not only for the Hindus but for the Sikhs as well as in one corner there was a Guru Granth Sahib (Holy book of the Sikhs). So it was a place of worship for two communities. There are though very few Sikhs living in Farrukhnagar.

Temple priest and the temple 

What I can make out is that it must have been a mosque before the partition and after that the dominant Muslim community left Farrukhnagar and people converted it to a temple cum Gurudwara. Of course we all know that the Indian partition was a bloodied affair with lot of persons from both (or rather three) communities being (forcefully) converted to another religion on both sides of the border and I am assuming the same happened in the case of buildings also on both sides of the border.

Sikh Holy Book inside the temple, Farrukhnagar

Also read:
Ali Gosh Khan Baoli in Farrukhnagar
Sheesh Mahal, Farrukhnagar
Sethani Ki Chattri
The Gates of Farrukhnagar - Dilli Dawaza & Jhajjar Darwaza

The Gates of Farrukhnagar - Dilli Dawaza & Jhajjar Darwaza

Farrukhnagar is a small sleepy little town close to the millennium city of Gurgaon. The famous Sultanpur Bird Sanctuary is part of the Farrukhnagar block.

Jhajjar Gate, Farrukhnagar

It is a Mughal era town which lost its importance to its neighbour Gurgaon after independence. The town has several heritage buildings like the Sethani Ki Chattri (cenotaph), Sheesh Mahal built in 1711, Ali Ghosh Khan ki Baoli (stepwell) built in the 1730’s .

Dilli Darwaza, Farrukhnagar with vegetable market in the front

In fact the town still has several old houses and havelis, though some of them in utter state of disrepair now. About the other monuments I have already written in my previous posts.

Crumbling structure of the Delhi Gate, Farrukhnagar

There are few darwaza’s (gates) which were built for either celebrating a particular victory in a war or others that were protective in nature. The Jhajjar Gate is right above the Ali Ghosh Khan ki Baoli. As the name suggest this gate is to welcome/stop visitors from the Jhajjar side (a small town in Haryana). In fact both the gate as well as the stepwell needs to be protected from the vehicular movement that passes right over them. Some restoration work has taken places for both these sites by the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI)

Shops right inside the Delhi Gate, Farrukhnagar

The Delhi Gate (Dilli Darwaza) used to be the gateway to Farrukhnagar and is a huge structure but unfortunately it is in utter neglect and some of the side walls and roof is falling down. The huge wooden spiked gates may crumble down any time. Shopkeepers have encroached upon the place inside the gate and I could see several small shops operational here.

The crumbling spiked door of the Delhi Gate, Farrukhnagar

On the Delhi side of the gate is a vegetable market presenting a colourful look to the place with vendors selling local produce while on the other side of the gate the shops sell agricultural implements and other stuff. One has to pass through this gate to reach the Sheesh Mahal and the Sitaram temple.

With Farrukhnagar being so close to Delhi, Haryana Tourism department should develop the heritage sites so that it can attract a lot of tourists and can also generate revenue (only if these are well managed!).

Also read:
Ali Gosh Khan Baoli in Farrukhnagar
Sheesh Mahal, Farrukhnagar
Sethani Ki Chattri

Sheesh Mahal, Farrukhnagar

Farrukhnagar, a Mughal era town in the Gurgaon district of Haryana is a treasure trove for heritage buildings.  Most tourists go to the Sultanpur National Park famous for the migratory wintering birds but somehow ignore this town. Though now the city of Gurgaon is called the 'Millenium City' (a misnomer according to me) it was Farrukhnagar which was a bigger and important town during the Mughal and British rules.

The Sheesh Mahal, Farrukhnagar

The Sheesh Mahal palace was built by Fauzdar Khan around 1711 AD. To reach the palace one has to cross the main market as well as the Delhi Darwaza (gate) and takes one amidst very old houses and havelis.

The entrance gate of the Sheesh Mahal Palace

From the entrance gate one cannot make out that there is a whole palace inside. Though the palace is surrounded by fort walls but at most places there is now no trace of the walls.

The Sheesh Mahal from inside

Though the name (Sheesh Mahal means Mirror Palace) is suggestive of mirror inlay work but with time now there are no more mirror inlay works that I could see. There is a courtyard in front with water channel.  

The backside of the Sheesh Mahal in ruins

Despite being the most important monument in Farrukhnagar what I saw of the state of the monument disappointed me. Only a part of the monument is now under restoration including the basement. The back side is in utter disrepair and the walls are crumbling down.

Red Sandstone was used extensively in the Sheesh Mahal

The Sheesh Mahal is now being restored by the Archaeological Survey of India. When I went there was no restoration work going on and I believe the pace is slow and the work tardy. There is also a memorial for the martyrs of the 1857 rebellion in the courtyard.

An Air duct

The Sheesh Mahal is three storeys including the basement which people often miss to locate. The stairs leading to the basement are steep, dark and dingy. The basement must have been very good place to sit in summers as there are air ducts (you can't see where this air duct opening is going) from which air passes and there is a cool breeze in the basement.

The basement in the Sheesh Mahal

I also saw that the basement was a refuge of liquor bottles and other waste material. How is it possible when  they keep the doors closed as for example I had to wait for quite some time before the caretaker arrived as he had gone somewhere for lunch (and probably a siesta!). He even took my identification card before allowing me to enter and returned it only when I came out of the premises (this is presumably being done to stop the vagabonds from entering and spoiling the place).

In Farrukhnagar one can also see Ali Gosh Khan Baoli, a stepwell and Sethani Ki Chattri which is a memorial cenotaph.

Sethani Ki Chattri

Sethani Ki Chattri is a memorial cenotaph located at the entrance of the town of Farrukhnagar if one is coming from the Jhajjar side. As the name in Hindi suggests it is a memorial cenotaph built by a merchant in memory of his wife.

Sethani Ki Chattri, Farrukhnagar

The structure is two storeyed and has eight arched openings on each floor. The cenotaph has several beautiful frescoes that have survived the wear and tear with time by nature and man. It has been built in 1861.

Fresco Ceiling

Farrukhnagar town can be reached by taking the Pataudi road from Gurgaon and then further down taking the Jhajjar road. It is about 60 kms from Delhi.

A woman at war

The structure has the architectural blend of both the Rajasthani and Mughal styles. The structure, unfortunately, is in utter state of disrepair and even trees have taken root in the building.

Indian wrestling competition

Indian wrestling has been traditionally a popular sport in India and the same has been depicted in the above fresco.

Trapeze Artists

Another popular theme is the tightrope walk performed by the trapeze artists.

A Lover trying to reach his beloved

The frescoes inside and outside have very interesting and popular Indian motifs and despite the fact that these were painted more than 150 years back they still retain the shine and colour.

Outside walls of the cenotaph

Some of the painted tiles on the outer walls have started falling and need urgent attention.

Why do we spoil our heritage?

And my constant grouse again - Sethani Ki Chattri is also being spoiled by Indians (mainly locals in this instance) like all other monuments in India by scribbling their names and putting comments on the walls. When would we learn to not to spoil the beauty of our ancient heritage?

View of the stepwell from an arch of the cenotaph

Just in front of this cenotaph is the Ali Gosh Khan Baoli or stepwell that has been taken over by the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI). So why can't the ASI take over this structure as well?

Also read: Ali Gosh Khan Baoli in Farrukhnagar

Ali Gosh Khan Baoli in Farrukhnagar

Ali Gosh Khan Baoli (Stepwell) in Farrukhnagar is a monument of national importance and has been restored by the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI). Farrukhnagar town is located in Gurgaon district in the state of Haryana.

Ali Gosh Khan Baoli in Farrukhnagar

To go there one first needs to take the Pataudi road and then further on take the Jhajjar road. It is approximately 60 kms from Delhi. The baoli's or stepwells are water storage systems that can be reached by descending a set of steps and were traditionally used for water conservation across the north and north-west India.

Octagonal Baoli at Farrukhnagar

This octagonal baoli is a mughal era monument bulit around 1730's. Though better maintained compared to other monuments of Farruknagar it seems to me that ASI is doing a poor job of it. The baoli seems to remain dry now throughout the year.

The central well of the baoli

The central well at the bottom step was also dry and unfortunately also littered with rubbish, though the remaining part of the baoli was clean.

Tunnel Entrance to the Baoli

One enters the baoli via a tunnel above which lies the Jhajjar Gate where the vehicular traffic to and from Jhajjar passes posing a grave threat to the baoli as well as the gate. The authorities must make an alternate route so that the vehicles don't go over the baoli so that it can be protected.

Circular Outside Wall of the Baoli at Farrukhnagar

This four storey structure could be missed completely from the outside as only a small circular wall is visible but after entering inside the grandeur of the place built nearly 300 years back is remarkable.

Also read the story of a modern stepwell in Jodhpur doing an excellent job at water conservation.