Places to visit in Ladakh - Pangong Tso

Pangong Tso, Ladakh

It is said that sometimes the journey is equally important, if not more, than the final destination. The same can be said for most of the journeys & destinations in Ladakh, an erstwhile province of Jammu & Kashmir and now a Union Territory. 

On way to Pangong Tso, Ladakh

My journey from Nubra region to Pangong Tso (or Pangong Lake), though long, was mesmerizing what with the clear green waters of the Shyok river and rivulets on the way as well as the moonscape mountains having different hues at every turn.

Shyok River, Ladakh

 

Changthangi, Ladakh

On the way I saw the Pashmina goats, also known as Changthangi (for the region they come from) grazing at high altitudes.

 

Yaks grazing, Ladakh

Then there were the Yaks feeling at home and grazing in the frozen pond and grass landscape. Yaks are at home in extremely low temperatures at these high altitudes. Yaks are sturdy beasts of the region providing not only milk and cheese but also as beasts of burden to the locals especially in winters when all motorised transport may cease in remote areas.

Pangong Tso, Ladakh

The lake at 14270 feet is 134 km long though only 1/3 is in Ladakh & the remaining is in Tibet. The lake has an endorheic basin, which means that it retains water and has no outflow. The lake completely freezes over in winters. Due to being endorheic, the water is salty and the Pangong is considered the world’s highest salt-water lake.

Pangong Tso with mountains on the eastern side

The photo does not justify the beauty of the place with the lake having multiple colours of blue, which is mesmerizing. One can just sit here and watch the lake changing colours – i.e. various shades of blue.

 

At the Pangong Tso, Ladakh

The hills, some bare and others snow clad add to the aura of the place. In summers, there is accommodation available here but after end-October most of them close it for winters though few eateries are still open in November.

Shades of Blue, Pangong Tso, Ladakh

You can reach Leh, capital of Ladakh by air or by road (long journey). From Leh you can book cabs/bikes. Travel in Ladakh is expensive because of long distances between destinations. Best time to visit Pangong Tso is summers but then be prepared to see lots of tourists trying to be ‘three idiots’. From Nubra to Pangong Tso the drive is about 270 kms and takes about seven hours. If one goes from Leh via the Chang La (at 17688 feet) then the distance is about 225 kms and take about five and a half hours.

Things to do in Mcleodganj: The Kora Circuit

I have been visiting Mcleodganj since the year 1987 but somehow had been unaware of one important facet of the Buddhist tradition – the Kora. Kora is a form of pilgrimage wherein you circumambulate a holy site (Parikrama in the Hindu tradition). In Mcleodganj Buddhist, young and old, take the Kora circuit around the hill that has the residence of Dalai Lama and the monastery and therefore considered holy. Surprisingly it is little known.

The Kora in Mcleodganj

This tradition on circumambulation is common in both Buddhism and Bon. However, in Buddhism the walk in a circle is clockwise whereas in Bon it is counter clockwise. Two famous Kora are the Mount Kailash and Lake Mansarovar.

Huge prayer flags on the Kora route, Mcleodganj

The route in Mcleodganj is well paved and away from the town’s honking traffic amidst pine and deodar forest. The route has stringed prayer flags small and large. Buddhists believe that the fluttering of the flags carries the prayers written on them onwards.

The Kora route has benches placed all along for people to take rest

If one gets tired then one can sit down on one of the benches lined up along the route. The older people do sit down to take rest and chant prayers.

Prayer wheels of all sizes on the Kora route in Mcleodganj

The path is lined with prayer wheels in different sizes. Some are made of metal; others are of wood. Some are very small and look antique as if they have been brought from Tibet while there are others that maybe be 8-10 feet in height. The prayer wheels are always on the right side of the devotee.

A Tibetan lady at the prayer wheels on the Kora in Mcleodganj

On the Kora route there are stones carved with the Buddhist prayer Om Mani Padme Hum. The stones are in various sizes and some of them are brightly painted.

Artistically carved stones with Om Mani Padme Hum written on them on the Kora in Mcleodganj

Apart from the serenity and the beauty of the path, the dense forest is a paradise for the birdwatchers. I saw several birds and one could spend several hours just observing them.

Kora route in Mcleodganj is a Birdwatchers paradise 

Langurs come down the mountains in winters and one comes across them in this area. Unlike monkeys they do not trouble people. They are busy with themselves.

Langurs preening each other on the Kora route in Mcleodganj

I liked the Kora circuit so much that I performed the Kora twice in three days. I thank my Tibetan friend who introduced the Kora to me and took me around explaining things on the first visit.

Prayer flags and prayer wheels on the Kora in Mcleodganj 

This route is, fortunately, little known to most tourists and therefore not crowded.  There is something special about it.

Wind carrying the prayers written on the flags

The cleanliness is impressive. Jute bags function as dustbins.

The serene Kora route in Mcleodganj

All in all the best part of McLeodganj, for the devout as well as the curious tourist.

Also read:
Bon Monastery in Himachal
Places to visit in McLeodganj: Bhagsunag Waterfall
McLeodganj, Dharamshala, Himachal
Why I love to go to McLeodganj
Skywatch Friday - Sunset at McLeodganj, Himachal
Places to visit in McLeodganj: The Church of St John-in-the-Wilderness