Places to Visit in Bhutan: Punakha Dzong

At the Punkha Dzong, Bhutan

Punakha is a stunning valley in Bhutan that offers a unique blend of natural beauty, rich history, and spirituality. Punakha is located in the western part of Bhutan, approximately 77 kilometers northeast of Thimphu, the capital city and 125 kms from Paro, the nearest International Airport. The valley is situated at an altitude of 1,200 meters above sea level and the climate is mild and temperate, with warm summers and mild winters.

Punakha is home to numerous iconic landmarks and attractions that display its rich cultural heritage like the Punakha Dzong, Chimi Lhakhang, Khamsum Yulley Namgyal Chorten, Punakha Suspension Bridge etc.

Confluence of Pho Chhu & Mo Chhu rivers adjacent to Punakha Dzong

Perched strategically at the confluence of the Pho Chhu (male river) and Mo Chhu (female river) rivers, Punakha Dzong is one of the most iconic and revered landmarks in Bhutan. (Dzongs or forts are typically Bhutanese and Tibetan architecture and normally have a mix of fort and monastery within it) After the confluence of these two rivers, the main river is known as Puna Tsang chu.

The majestic Punakha Dzong

This majestic fortress monastery, also known as Pungtang Dechen Photrang Dzong (Palace of Great Happiness), is a testament to the country's rich history, spirituality, and architectural prowess. Built in 1637 by Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal, the founder of Bhutan, Punakha Dzong served as the administrative and religious centre of the region. The Punakha Dzong played a pivotal role in the country's unification and has been the seat of Bhutan's government until 1955 when the capital moved to Thimphu.

Punakha Dzong is an exemplary example of Bhutanese architecture, displaying a unique blend of Buddhist and Tibetan influences. The dzong with walls up to 3 meters thick is reinforced with heavy wooden beams.

A vibrant courtyard at Punakha Dzong

The dzong's architecture is a testament to Bhutanese craftsmanship. Its intricate designs, vibrant colours, ornate carvings, and imposing structure are a remarkable sight.

 

Steep stairs at the entrance of the Punakha Dzong

The stairs at the entrance to the Dzong are extremely steep and one has to climb or descend carefully in order not to fall. Probably the steepness (probably they can be removed also) is for safety purposes as this is a fort.

One of the courtyards inside Punakha Dzong

The Punakha Dzong has a six-story central tower housing sacred relics and murals depicting Buddhist mythology including the Rangjung Kharsapani (Self-Created Image of Avalokiteshvara). It has twenty-one temples dedicated to various deities and Buddhist masters. 

Inside one of the temples at Punakha Dzong

In addition, it is home to over 500 monks, who reside and study within the Dzong's premises. The courtyards have intricate stone carvings and murals. The Dzong also serves as Administrative offices as though it is no longer the capital but as a District, it still has some administrative offices inside the complex.

In 1994, a devastating flood severely damaged the Punakha Dzong. A meticulous restoration project, undertaken by the Bhutanese government and international organizations, ensured the structure's integrity and authenticity. For example, the bridge you see over the river has been reconstructed with the financial and technical assistance of Germany.

The reconstructed bridge at Punakha Dzong

Dress modestly and remove shoes when visiting temples and monasteries. Persons wearing shorts, skirts, T-shirts without collars etc maybe denied entry.

Punakha Dzong is a truly remarkable place that offers a glimpse into Bhutan's rich history and culture. Its majestic architecture, stunning location, and historical significance make it a must-visit destination for any traveller exploring this Himalayan kingdom.

Also read:

Bhutan's Iconic Tiger's Nest: A Trek Through History and Breathtaking Vistas 

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Bhutan's Iconic Tiger's Nest: A Trek Through History and Breathtaking Vistas

Tiger's Nest or Taktsang Monastery, Paro, Bhutan

Imagine a monastery clinging impossibly to a sheer cliff face. That's the Taktsang Monastery also popularly known as the Tiger's Nest, Bhutan's iconic landmark. It is majestically perched precariously on a cliff, 3,000 meters above the Paro Valley. This revered Buddhist site is one of Bhutan's most iconic and awe-inspiring attractions, drawing visitors from around the world.

The Tiger's Nest as seen near the start of the trail.

On the day of my trek I woke up to a rainy day so I decided to first visit the Rinpung Dzong (Dzong means fortress) in Paro and then make a decision, if the rain stops, to go for the Tiger’s Nest trek as else the trek may be slippery and slushy. By the time I reached the starting point of the trek at 10:30 AM it had stopped raining. It kept drizzling intermittently which actually made the trek pleasant as it brought down the temperatures.

Paro Valley as seen from the Tiger's Nest Trail

The journey to Tiger's Nest begins with a scenic hike through lush forests and along winding trails. The climb is moderately challenging, but the stunning views of the valley below and the monastery above make every step worthwhile. The trek to the Taktsang is ten kms to and fro. The Paro town is at 2200 Meters while the Taktsang Monastery is at 2950 meters so you have to ascend nearly 800 meters or nearly 2500 feet. One should keep the whole day reserved for this trek as it may take up to eight hours for the journey, including about 1.5 hours inside the temples. One can rent a walking stick if need be at the starting point. Alternatively, take a pony up to half way. Beyond that, the ponies are not allowed. Foreigners are required to pay a fee of Ngultrum  1000 (or one can pay in Indian currency as the same is accepted all over Bhutan.)

Waterfall near Tiger's Nest

If you are lucky then you can see the Tiger’s Nest most of the way or sometimes it is not visible at all until you reach it depending upon the weather conditions. With me, it played hide, seek most of the way, and kept showing itself intermittently.

The trek and waterfall near Tiger's Nest

Just before the final decent and ascent of stairs, before you reach the Tiger’s Nest is a huge waterfall enhancing the beauty of the place.

Taktsang has nine temples

Dedicated to Guru Rinpoche, the Tiger's Nest houses sacred shrines and offers a glimpse into Bhutanese Buddhism. The monastery's origins date back to the 8th century when Guru Rinpoche, a revered Buddhist master, is said to have meditated in a cave here. According to legend, he arrived on the back of a tigress, hence the name "Tiger's Nest." Over the centuries, the monastery has been rebuilt and expanded, with the current structure dating back to 1692. There are nine temples within the complex. Visitors are only allowed upto the eighth temple and the ninth temple is open to Bhutanese persons only. The cave is still there and I only saw it partly as entry inside is risky because of steep stairs and possibility of accident and therefore entry is restricted.

Perched on a Cliff- Tiger's Nest

As you approach the monastery, you'll be struck by its sheer scale and majesty. The temples contain intricate murals, statues, and shrines. The atmosphere is serene and peaceful, with monks and nuns going about their daily rituals. Photography inside the temple is not permitted. Also one is required to be dressed modestly else the entry will not be permitted. T-shirts are permitted if they have collars. Shorts, skirts etc are not allowed. Unlike some other religions one is required to keep the head uncovered and shoes are not allowed inside the temple complex.

The first clear view of the Tiger's Nest

The view of Tiger's Nest and Paro Valley, Bhutan

It is advisable to carry plenty of drinking water, snacks etc as there is not much available on the route with only one point where these are available (mid-way).

Lush Green Forest and Flowers - on way to Tiger's Nest

For foreigners having a guide is mandatory for the duration of your stay in Bhutan. Also, there is a Sustainable Development Tax. For Indians this has been kept at Ngultrum 1200 per person per day. For others the SDT is higher.  Indians don’t need a Visa but it is advisable to carry the Passport as entry permit is stamped on the Passport. Though some agencies would tell you that the Indian Voter Card is acceptable but invariably it creates some issues so my advice is carry the Passport.

Flowers in bloom - Tiger's Nest trail

Tiger's Nest is an unforgettable experience, offering breath-taking views, rich history, and a glimpse into Bhutan's unique culture. As you stand before this majestic landmark, you'll understand why it's considered one of the most sacred and iconic sites in the Himalayas. It's a challenging yet rewarding experience that combines stunning scenery and rich history.

Things to do in Mcleodganj: The Kora Circuit

I have been visiting Mcleodganj since the year 1987 but somehow had been unaware of one important facet of the Buddhist tradition – the Kora. Kora is a form of pilgrimage wherein you circumambulate a holy site (Parikrama in the Hindu tradition). In Mcleodganj Buddhist, young and old, take the Kora circuit around the hill that has the residence of Dalai Lama and the monastery and therefore considered holy. Surprisingly it is little known.

The Kora in Mcleodganj

This tradition on circumambulation is common in both Buddhism and Bon. However, in Buddhism the walk in a circle is clockwise whereas in Bon it is counter clockwise. Two famous Kora are the Mount Kailash and Lake Mansarovar.

Huge prayer flags on the Kora route, Mcleodganj

The route in Mcleodganj is well paved and away from the town’s honking traffic amidst pine and deodar forest. The route has stringed prayer flags small and large. Buddhists believe that the fluttering of the flags carries the prayers written on them onwards.

The Kora route has benches placed all along for people to take rest

If one gets tired then one can sit down on one of the benches lined up along the route. The older people do sit down to take rest and chant prayers.

Prayer wheels of all sizes on the Kora route in Mcleodganj

The path is lined with prayer wheels in different sizes. Some are made of metal; others are of wood. Some are very small and look antique as if they have been brought from Tibet while there are others that maybe be 8-10 feet in height. The prayer wheels are always on the right side of the devotee.

A Tibetan lady at the prayer wheels on the Kora in Mcleodganj

On the Kora route there are stones carved with the Buddhist prayer Om Mani Padme Hum. The stones are in various sizes and some of them are brightly painted.

Artistically carved stones with Om Mani Padme Hum written on them on the Kora in Mcleodganj

Apart from the serenity and the beauty of the path, the dense forest is a paradise for the birdwatchers. I saw several birds and one could spend several hours just observing them.

Kora route in Mcleodganj is a Birdwatchers paradise 

Langurs come down the mountains in winters and one comes across them in this area. Unlike monkeys they do not trouble people. They are busy with themselves.

Langurs preening each other on the Kora route in Mcleodganj

I liked the Kora circuit so much that I performed the Kora twice in three days. I thank my Tibetan friend who introduced the Kora to me and took me around explaining things on the first visit.

Prayer flags and prayer wheels on the Kora in Mcleodganj 

This route is, fortunately, little known to most tourists and therefore not crowded.  There is something special about it.

Wind carrying the prayers written on the flags

The cleanliness is impressive. Jute bags function as dustbins.

The serene Kora route in Mcleodganj

All in all the best part of McLeodganj, for the devout as well as the curious tourist.

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The Royal Monastery of the Emerald Buddha, Bangkok

Inside the Royal Palace is the most venerated Buddhist site of Thailand - The Royal Monastery of the Emerald Buddha.

The Royal Monastery of the Emerald Buddha, Bangkok

The name itself is a misnomer as the Buddha is not made of emerald but of green jade. The locals call the monastery as Wat Phra Kaew. The story goes that when the Buddha statue was discovered in 1434 in a Stupa in Chiang Rai it was covered in a plaster. When part of the plaster peeled off the monk who saw the green stone underneath thought it was made of emerald and somehow the name of Emerald Buddha stuck. The origin of the statue is believed to be in India.

Pilgrims praying in front of the Royal Monastery, Bangkok 

In front as well as inside pilgrims light candle and joss sticks as well as place flowers and pray. What is interesting is that though it is a monastery no monks stay here and only on royal ceremonies the monks come from outside. This is so as the monastery also serves as a private praying place for the royal family.

Inside the monastery the walls are covered with murals depicting life of the Buddha. Outside walls of the monastery are covered all round with several statues in gold and the walls itself are gold plated.

Decorations on the outer walls of the Wat Phra Kaew Monastery

Despite the fact that the Emerald Buddha is located here since 1778 (for more than 200 years it was in Laos) the monastery looks like new and is well maintained. And despite the fact that there are always lots of tourists thronging the Royal Palace there is no disorder and the crowd management is very good.

The Emerald Buddha with gold costume

The Emerald Buddha sits on a golden throne and the costume of the Buddha is changed thrice a year as per the season by the King in a ceremony though I am told that now as the King is quite old this ceremony is performed by his son.

Photography inside the temple is not allowed. Also as is true for most temples in Thailand one needs to be properly attired. If you are not then you can buy or take on rent appropriate clothing near the entrance of the Royal Place. The entrance fee of 100 Baht is valid for the whole of the Royal Palace.

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