Dochula Pass: A Scenic Gateway to Bhutan

At the Druk Wangyal Chortens, Dochula Pass, Bhutan

Tucked away in the majestic Himalayas, Dochula Pass is a hidden gem that offers a glimpse into Bhutan's stunning natural beauty and rich cultural heritage. Located at an altitude of 10,130 feet above sea level, this mountain pass is a must-visit destination for travellers seeking adventure, serenity, and spiritual enlightenment.

 

Winding road to Dochula Pass in Bhutan

Dochula Pass is situated in the Thimphu district of Bhutan, approximately 30 kilometers east of the capital city, Thimphu. The pass is easily accessible by road, and the scenic drive from Thimphu takes around 1.5 hours. I visited the Dochula Pass twice, first on way from Thimpu to Punakha and then again while going from Punakha to Paro. Both the times, as I had gone in July the Pass was mostly enveloped in clouds so there was no clear view of the surrounding mountains but then the clouds made the place more mystical & serene. For one to get the views of the nearby mountain ranges the best time is from March to May or September to November.

  

Approach to Druk Wangyal Chortens from Punakha

As you ascend to Dochula Pass, the landscape transforms into a breathtaking tapestry of rolling hills, towering mountains, and verdant forests. The pass is surrounded by the majestic Himalayas, with the highest peak, Masanggang (7,158 meters), visible on a clear day. The area is home to a diverse range of flora and fauna, including rare species of birds, animals, and plants.

 

The 108 Stupas at Dochula Pass, Bhutan

One of the most striking features of Dochula Pass is the 108 memorial stupas or chortens, built to commemorate the Bhutanese soldiers who lost their lives in the 2003 war against insurgents. The stupas, known as "Druk Wangyal Chortens," are beautifully crafted and offer a reminder of the country's history and bravery.

The Chortens and the path for circumambulation, Dochula Pass, Bhutan 

 There is a path for circumambulation of the stupas. For the non-initiated please note that the circumambulation is always done clockwise in Buddhism. Only in Bon religion the circumambulation is done anti clockwise (Bon Monastery in Himachal). Each stupa also has a further four miniature paintings of various Buddhist Gurus.

Chorten with miniature painting of a Guru 

In Buddhism, the number 108 holds significant spiritual and symbolic meaning. The number 108 represents the completion of a cycle or a journey, symbolizing spiritual fulfillment and enlightenment; 108 is believed to bring abundance and prosperity, as it is a multiple of 9, which represents growth and expansion; 108 is often associated with spiritual growth, representing the many stages and challenges one must overcome on the path to enlightenment.

 

Miniature 108 Stupas at a roadside in Bhutan

Across Bhutan one sees miniature stupas (mostly in multiples of 9 and 108 at several places) placed by devotees next to a precipitous road.

Beautiful view of Druk Namgyal Chortens from top at Dochula Pass, Bhutan

In Mahayana Buddhism, a Bodhisattva takes 108 vows to attain enlightenment and help others achieve liberation. In Tibetan Buddhism, many mantras and recitations are repeated 108 times to purify the mind and accumulate merit. A traditional Buddhist rosary, called a mala, typically has 108 beads, used for counting recitations of mantras or prayers.

View of the 108 Stupas at the Dochula Pass from top

 

Near the stupas stands the Druk Wangyal Lhakhang, a beautiful temple built to honour the fourth king of Bhutan, Jigme Singye Wangchuck.

Druk Wangyal Chortens & surrounding area at Dochula Pass

 Also next to the stupas there is a well-maintained park having good flora and fauna. There are nine man made cave temples with each devoted to a separate Guru. Carry a binocular if you are interested in bird watching here.

Also read:

Bon Monastery in Himachal

Bhutan's Iconic Tiger's Nest: A Trek Through History and Breathtaking Vistas

Top Ten Restaurants in McLeodganj, Dharamshala

When you visit a place you also like to eat the best food available there. McLeodganj has plenty of dining options at affordable prices specifically if you are interested in Tibetan, Chinese and Italian foods. The listing below is not in order of preference or ranking but in the simple order that I visited them.

Blue Cheese Pizza at Om Restaurant 

Om Restaurant – It has a good ambiance and beautiful location and you can sit for long and enjoy the view of the undulating mountains. The Blue Cheese Pizza that I had was very good.

Thukpa, Tingmo & Phigsa at Norling Cafe

Norling Café- Not a very big place but has been maintained nicely. However, it has no views as it is in the middle of the market. The Norling Café Special Thukpa was good with lots of meat in it. The Phingsa and Tingmo were also well prepared.

Rewa Cafe

Rewa Café – They may not score high on ambiance, location or view but the Thukpa (Rs 80 for a mutton Thukpa) and Momo (Rs 90 for a plate of mutton Momo) score highly. The Momos were really juicy. On top of that they kept the hot water in a thermos for drinking without being asked. The Tibetans prefer to take hot water throughout the day to keep them hydrated and therefore keep hot water in a flask.

Commonground

Common Ground – This restaurant is five minutes away from the main market, has been beautifully done and also has a good view if you sit outside. They specialize in Chinese (not Tibetan). I had ordered Dawa’s Sweet & Spicy Sizzler (Rs 200 for a plate), Sha Tag (Rs 230 for a plate), Momo and Tingmo. Both the sizzler as well as Momo were excellent.

Tuna Pizza at Family Pizzaria, Dharamkot

Family Pizzaria, Dharamkot – This is not in McLeodganj but in Dharamkot. Lots of foreigners and Indians who come for longer stays stay in Dharamkot to do Vipasana etc. The walk to Dharamkot is also nice. The restaurant is located amidst a small orchard and one can enjoy the food in this beautiful setting. The Tuna Pizza and Tea that I had here were good.

Veg Cheese Bhakleb at Peace Cafe

Peace Café – This place is good for breakfast. The inside ambiance is good but the location is nothing to write home about. Has only vegetarian options. I am seeing that over the years more and more vegetarian-only outlets are coming up in McLeodganj as it is becoming fashionable in the west. The Veg Cheese Bhakleb (Rs 150 for a plate) that I ordered with banana shake was good.

Momo & Shapalay at Palden

Palden Tea Shop – This place has no ambiance or view. It is a very small place with just two tables. I has ordered Shapalay and Momo and both of these were without doubt the best that one can have in Mcleodganj. It was manged by just one person only who managed to make the food, serve, clean utensils etc single handedly. If you are not fussy about going to glossy looking places then choose such small ones to get real authentic and delicious Tibetan food.

Shifan Pautse at Kailash Kunga

Kailash Kunga – This place is good for breakfast etc. Again the ambiance and location are not good but the Shifan Pautse that I had were delicious.

Meat Ball Thukpa, Momo at the Clay Oven

The Clay Oven – The place is located near the Main Square and has very well done interiors with real live clay oven working where you can watch your food being prepared. The Meat Ball Thukpa (Rs 130 for a plate) was well prepared and the Momo (Rs 120 for a plate) were very juicy.

Chicken Garlic Steak & Dessert at the Carpe Diem

Carpe Diem – I had an excellent Chicken Garlic Steak with rice, chips and butter veg (Rs 240 for a plate) followed by dessert called Hello to the Queen (Rs 130 for a plate). The place is spread over two floors and has good ambiance, western music and is popular with foreign tourists. The place also serves liquor. Comparatively expensive place but it is still value for money.

There are several vegan cafes also coming up as the demand is rising for such cafes.

The food in all the restaurants that I visited was good and comparatively much cheaper than in Delhi/NCR. The Momo prepared by all of them are fresh and juicy unlike the ones you get mostly in Delhi. So be prepared to give some time for your Momo to arrive! The best point about all these restaurants are that either they don’t charge GST at all or is part of the printed price so you know exactly what you would end up paying at end of the meal.

Also read:

Things to do in Mcleodganj: The Kora Circuit
Places to visit in McLeodganj: Bhagsunag Waterfall
McLeodganj, Dharamshala, Himachal
Why I love to go to McLeodganj
Skywatch Friday - Sunset at McLeodganj, Himachal
Places to visit in McLeodganj: The Church of St John-in-the-Wilderness

Things to do in Mcleodganj: The Kora Circuit

I have been visiting Mcleodganj since the year 1987 but somehow had been unaware of one important facet of the Buddhist tradition – the Kora. Kora is a form of pilgrimage wherein you circumambulate a holy site (Parikrama in the Hindu tradition). In Mcleodganj Buddhist, young and old, take the Kora circuit around the hill that has the residence of Dalai Lama and the monastery and therefore considered holy. Surprisingly it is little known.

The Kora in Mcleodganj

This tradition on circumambulation is common in both Buddhism and Bon. However, in Buddhism the walk in a circle is clockwise whereas in Bon it is counter clockwise. Two famous Kora are the Mount Kailash and Lake Mansarovar.

Huge prayer flags on the Kora route, Mcleodganj

The route in Mcleodganj is well paved and away from the town’s honking traffic amidst pine and deodar forest. The route has stringed prayer flags small and large. Buddhists believe that the fluttering of the flags carries the prayers written on them onwards.

The Kora route has benches placed all along for people to take rest

If one gets tired then one can sit down on one of the benches lined up along the route. The older people do sit down to take rest and chant prayers.

Prayer wheels of all sizes on the Kora route in Mcleodganj

The path is lined with prayer wheels in different sizes. Some are made of metal; others are of wood. Some are very small and look antique as if they have been brought from Tibet while there are others that maybe be 8-10 feet in height. The prayer wheels are always on the right side of the devotee.

A Tibetan lady at the prayer wheels on the Kora in Mcleodganj

On the Kora route there are stones carved with the Buddhist prayer Om Mani Padme Hum. The stones are in various sizes and some of them are brightly painted.

Artistically carved stones with Om Mani Padme Hum written on them on the Kora in Mcleodganj

Apart from the serenity and the beauty of the path, the dense forest is a paradise for the birdwatchers. I saw several birds and one could spend several hours just observing them.

Kora route in Mcleodganj is a Birdwatchers paradise 

Langurs come down the mountains in winters and one comes across them in this area. Unlike monkeys they do not trouble people. They are busy with themselves.

Langurs preening each other on the Kora route in Mcleodganj

I liked the Kora circuit so much that I performed the Kora twice in three days. I thank my Tibetan friend who introduced the Kora to me and took me around explaining things on the first visit.

Prayer flags and prayer wheels on the Kora in Mcleodganj 

This route is, fortunately, little known to most tourists and therefore not crowded.  There is something special about it.

Wind carrying the prayers written on the flags

The cleanliness is impressive. Jute bags function as dustbins.

The serene Kora route in Mcleodganj

All in all the best part of McLeodganj, for the devout as well as the curious tourist.

Also read:
Bon Monastery in Himachal
Places to visit in McLeodganj: Bhagsunag Waterfall
McLeodganj, Dharamshala, Himachal
Why I love to go to McLeodganj
Skywatch Friday - Sunset at McLeodganj, Himachal
Places to visit in McLeodganj: The Church of St John-in-the-Wilderness