Delicious Food at Ali’s Restaurant in Dehradun

As I wrote in an earlier post on Dehradun, I had some spare time before I catch a train back to Delhi. On Gandhi Road near the Jama Masjid area I noticed several restaurants serving non-vegetarian food. It was still early for dinner, so I marked one of them – Ali’s.

Ali's Non-Vegetarian Restaurant on Gandhi Road, Dehradun

Later on I returned to Ali’s Restaurant. The decor of the place was nice and the place looked hygienic. I did wonder though why there were hardly any families around and it seemed mainly a male bastion. But then I saw some families emerge from the inside. Then I realised that this restaurant, like so many others in smaller towns in India, has a separate seating arrangement for families.

Mutton Seekh Kababs, Rumali Roti & Onion Rings at Ali's

Initially I ordered mutton Seekh Kabab with Rumali Roti. These were accompanied with onion rings and green chutney. I must say that they were one of the best kababs I have eaten in a long time. They were soft and kind of melted in the mouth. Also one must try their Mutton Nihari. The prices of the dishes are reasonable. In fact compared to the prices in the NCR and Delhi they are definitely on the lower side yet superior in quality (as well as quantity!).

The owner at Ali's Restaurant in Dehradun 

I was told that this restaurant is running since 1955. I also observed that they were serving kheer (an Indian sweet dish made of milk, rice and sugar) and I asked the owner that why no sweet dish has been mentioned in the menu. He told me that they have recently introduced this and are yet to come out with a menu. He invited me to try the kheer.

Delicious Kheer at Ali's Restaurant in Dehradun

And how could I refuse as there is always some scope for a dessert! The kheer (chilled) sprinkled with lots of dry fruits was delicious and amongst the best kheers that I have eaten anywhere.

Do check out the place the next time you are in Dehradun.

Also Read:
Skywatch Friday- A short visit to Dehradun

Skywatch Friday- A short visit to Dehradun

I recently went on a very short trip to Dehradun. Dehradun is the capital of the state of Uttrakhand. I took a Shatabdi train which takes about six hours to cover a distance of about 317 kms in about six hours. I reached Dehradun at about One in the afternoon and did the work that I had gone there for which finished in the evening and my train back was still a few hours away. I had booked my return journey by Mussoorie Express which takes about double the time compared to the Shatabdi but then you can sleep for the night and reach Delhi in the morning. So I decided to walk in the city to while away the time.

The iconic Ghantaghar or clock tower of Dehradun

I headed towards Ghantaghar (clock tower) which is an iconic structure of Dehradun made during British days. In fact one can see lot of the clock towers in several towns across India. They are normally in the centre of a town.

Paltan Bazaar, Dehradun

Next to the Ghantaghar is the Paltan Bazaar. On any given day it is very crowded and though the whole market is a pedestrian zone still walking in the market gives you a feeling of going to a crowded fair! While going towards this place on the Gandhi Road I observed several restaurants specifically serving non-vegetarian food near the mosque area. It was still some time for dinner time so I did mark one of them – Ali’s - to return later to try out the food there. But that I would write in a separate post.

Sunset in Dehradun

While walking around dusk time the sky and the clouds turned fabulous.

Every cloud has a silver lining - Dehradun

The sky gave a red tinge and as the phrase goes – every cloud has a silver lining – I did get to see the clouds with silver lining! 

Dehradun Railway Station

The Dehradun Railway Station building also is quite old (opened in 1899) and in front of it I could see several Ambassador cars which have almost disappeared from the metros but still ply in smaller towns. 

This post is part of Skywatch Friday.

Please Mind the GAP

Clean Ganga?

Recently I had gone to Rishikesh to do some river rafting and after completing the rafting near Muni-ki-Reti in Rishikesh I was just walking along the banks of the Ganga (or Ganges) and I was shocked to see a funeral pyre right on the banks of the river from which ash and other pollutants were entering the river directly.

Now the Government of India along with various state governments have been pumping millions of tax payers' rupees right from 1986 under the Ganga Action Plan (GAP) to clean the river. I wonder where all the money is going (You & I of course know) if they cannot even shift the burning of bodies away from the banks even from main tourist towns like Rishikesh. Think about all the other places where the industrial effluents are being released in the Ganga with impunity.

We definitely have to mind this GAP!

Also read earlier posts on Rishikesh -
Rafting Down the Ganges
Garud Chatti Temple, Rishikesh
Neergarh Falls: Rishikesh
Garud Chatti Waterfalls in Rajaji National Park

Rafting Down the Ganges

Majority of the persons heading towards Rishikesh go to 'wash their sins' in the 'holy' Ganges (or Ganga). Rishikesh is a small town at the beginning of the hills in the state of Uttarakhand in India.

Time to head to the river front 

But whenever I head to Risikesh it always has to do something with adventure. It is either a starting point for the many treks or  the climbing expeditions that I have done. But this time I went to Rishikesh with rafting as the most important agenda.

Shivpuri Beach - our starting point

I also did two mini treks  - one to the Neergarh Falls where I also did some rappelling and the other to Garud Chatti Waterfalls. I was staying in the Brahampuri area so on the day of the rafting I first headed up river by road to Shivpuri, our starting point. 

One of the smaller Rapids

Once there the raft instructors gave us instructions about techniques to use the paddles, navigate the rapids, how to control the speed and direction and how to use the feet to lock yourself so as not to fall overboard. The instructions are crucial so as to avoid serious accidents later when the raft turns turtle but unfortunately I have observed that people who come in large groups hardly listen to the instructions and are still in their own world.

Rafting near the Brahampuri

At the very first rapid though my raft went without any problems but one of the rafts overturned throwing all its rafters overboard. Luckily there were no injuries and quickly the instructors (two of them were on kayaks as well) pulled them back to the raft.

Near the end of the rafting with Ram Jhula area in the background

The rapids have been given very interesting names presumably by Sir Edmund Hillary himself. Some of the names of the rapids between Shivpuri to Muni ki Reti were Roller Coaster, Golf Course, Double Trouble, Initiation, Club House etc. The total distance from Shivpuri to Muni ki Reti is about 17 kms and there are about six major rapids.

My jubliant team after finishing the rafting at Muni Ki Reti

There are stretches where the water flow is sluggish and one can then jump in the river and swim/float for some time. But do not get complacent by the serene looking river - it is deep and there have been innumerable instances of people trying some fun and resulting in fatal accidents as the undercurrent can sweep you off your feet easily.

Lemonade & snack sellers doing brisk business for the hungry & thirsty rafters

We finished the rafting at Muni ki Reti and all were in a celebratory mood though I could see some of the people were thoroughly tired as they have never paddled before in their life and some of them were shivering because they felt the water too cold when in rapids they were thoroughly drenched or were those who went overboard either accidentally or for experience. The lemondae and snacks sellers did a brsik business as most rafter were thirsty and hungry!

Rafting Over - Time to go home for the raft as well!

It was time for not only us but the rafts also to head home and the rafts were carried by four people over their heads and then fixed to the jeeps to go to our camps.

Best time to do rafting is from September to May. During monsoons the rafting activity stops as the flow is too much as well as the water is muddy. In winters the level is low and if you jump in the river to swim alongside your raft, which I did for a considerable time when I went in March, the water is too cold and you would not enjoy so much.

Also Read:

Garud Chatti Waterfalls in Rajaji National Park
Neergarh Falls: Rishikesh
Garud Chatti Temple, Rishikesh

Garud Chatti Temple, Rishikesh

Garud Chatti temple is on the Neelkanth road near Rishikesh in Uttarakhand. Next to the temple is the path leading to the beautiful Garud Chatti Waterfalls in the Rajaji National Park.

Garud Chatti Temple, Brahampuri

Though the temple is very small but what I liked about the temple were the reflections created in the water body that encircles the temple from three sides. The water has been brought by making channel higher up from one of the Garud Chatti waterfalls itself.

Garud Chatti temple  & its reflection in water

While I was looking at the temple and clicking pictures there was hardly anyone there and the temple was a picture of serenity. But then all of a sudden I noticed a group of locals approaching by foot and there was a big crowd that gathered at the temple.

Devotees approach the temple to the accompaniment of music

The devotees marched to the accompaniment of local music that was pleasing to the ears. The instruments included dhols and even bagpipes.

Devotees throng the Garud Chatti temple

The temple as the name suggests is made for the devotees of Garuda, an eagle like mythical bird that was the mode of transport of Lord Vishnu, a Hindu God.

The reflection of Garud Chatti temple and the hill

Once the devotees left, the temple was again a picture of serenity.

Also read:
Garud Chatti Waterfalls
Neergarh Falls: Rishikesh

Neergarh Falls: Rishikesh

Neergarh waterfalls are not one but a series of waterfalls. I had gone to Rishikesh with a batch of students and was staying in the Brahampuri area outside the town on the banks of the river Ganges.

Waterfall with the view first bridge

As part of our adventure program we did  a small trek which started from the milestone 234-235 on the National Highway 58 (Rishikesh-Badrinath). It is not a very long trek as the total length from the roadside till the top is only 1.5 km but part of the stretch have some steep gradients. One gains a total height of about 600 meters. One can reach the top in 45 minutes to an hour.

Resting Spot

There are two bridges on the waterfall - one in the middle and the second near the top waterfall. There are some resting stops as well where cement benches have been made. Also there are 3-4 places where one can get tea and other refreshments including the one at the top.

A serene waterfall

At three places on the stretch the waterfall makes a pool where if one so desires can take a dip to cool oneself. I liked the waterfall in the middle as somehow most people going up miss this one and I had the waterfall and the pool to myself for quite some time.

Natural way of chilling your drink

The highest fall is supposed to be a twin waterfall but either due to less water there was a single waterfall or maybe as there is rappelling done here the second waterfall has been manually closed.

Neergarh Waterfall & Rappelling

The rappelling experience is good for the ones who have never done it before otherwise the length to rappel face is not too big. Also they call it wet rappelling so when initially told at the camp I was excited that maybe the rappelling would be in the waterfall itself. But the only wet part of the rappelling is the fact that when you reach the bottom you hit the pool and therefore the shoes etc may get wet. Due to this reason they ask you to remove the shoes and climb barefoot till the point from where you rappel down. I did not take my shoes off till I went up and then took them off and put them in my knapsack so that I had the advantage of climbing with my shoes on and also saved them from getting wet also!

Chill yourself

As some persons rappelling down do loose the balance in the end they get completely wet and that leads to their inhibition being lifted and then people do play in the pool and even go under the waterfall.

Coming down from the top till the road head may take less than half the time one need to go up as it is all the way downhill.

Also read: Garud Chatti Waterfalls in Rajaji National Park

Garud Chatti Waterfalls in Rajaji National Park

I have been to Rishikesh innumerable times but had so far missed this area. Next to the Garud Chatti temple on the road to Neelkanth is a path leading to a series of waterfalls that is called as Garud Chatti waterfalls.

Surreal Waterfall

As we were camping nearby in the Brahampuri area three of us decided to go for a trek in the Rajajji National Park. We started from the road head next to the temple and the Neelkanth bridge and it was a beautiful path with stream on one side and the forested area on the other. 

Rajaji National Park

The area falls in the Rajajji National Park which is spread over 820 sq. kms. This part of the park falls under the Tehri Garhwal region of the state of Uttarakhand. Due to steep gradient at places and a fault in the topography one can see multiple waterfalls on this stretch within a short distance. 

The First Waterfall

The first waterfall is very small, though still beautiful. As we went there in the evening the light was very good for the photography. However, it is not advisable for novice trekkers to go very late as it would be difficult to return to the road head in darkness. Also the forest guard would not allow you to go in the park if you are very late in starting the trek (for your own safety).

The Second Waterfall

The path is reasonably good. One may think after reaching the second waterfall that they have come to the top but there is a way on the left, which is not clearly visible, to go further up.

Wild Flowers on the way

Throughout the trek one can see different kind of wild flowers blooming. The trek is not tough and surprisingly was not littered with soft drink bottles and empty chips packets which is the hallmark of some of the other trek paths that I have seen.

A Limestone Cave

Also near the third waterfall there are some limestone caves which can provide shelter, if need be. We sat next to all the three waterfalls to enjoy the beauty of the nature.

The Third & Final Waterfall

The third and the last waterfall though has a shorter fall than the second one but as the gradient is slightly less it gives the impression of being surreal and is really beautiful.

The trek inside the Rajaji National Park

As it was getting dark we had to turn back after going only a bit further up from the third waterfall. The trek is recommended for all nature lovers. It is a short trek that can be completed in couple of hours, including breaks.

Tiuni, Uttrakhand

Tiuni is a small settlement on State Highway 1 in Uttrakhand and is about 34 kms from Jubbal (in Himachal). Pabbar river flows next to it.

Devladi Temple, Tiuni

On the way I stopped after seeing the beautiful architecture of this temple in Tiuni known as the Devladi temple. 

Huna Style of Architecture

It has the similar architecture as that of the Mahasu Temple close by which is more famous and built in the Huna architectural style. If you notice in the photo above you will notice that there are five levels of the ceiling on the extreme left then four and then three closer to the entrance of the temple.

River Pabbar

Pabbar is a distributory of Tons River which goes on to merge in Yamuna. The Pabbar river's water, except during monsoons, are greenish in colour and have its source in the glaciers. The drive along the river is on a narrow road dotted with pine trees and is very beautiful.

Another temple in the same style

There are several temples spread across the area similar in style. The Panadavas, mythologically speaking, escaped from Lakhamandal and came to this region. Lakhamandal  is in itself an architectural delight. 

Tehri for Posterity

Tehri town as some of you now know is the New Tehri. The original Tehri town was in a valley whereas the New Tehri is at a much greater altitude.The town is/was part of the Uttrakhand state. In place of the town now there is a huge lake that is the largest man-made reservoir in Asia supplying water to the Tehri hydel power plant.

When I had gone to the Tehri region in 1989 the town was still very much there though the work on the Tehri dam was in progress for the past several years. I even saw Sunderlal Bahugana protesting against the dam.

The picture below will remain etched forever in my mind and I put it here for posterity as the town is no more as it has been submerged by the Bhagirathi and Bhilangna rivers.

Tehri Town in the Year 1989

When I revisited the area again in the year 2005 most of the town was already under several feet of water. The part that was still visible of the town was the 'Ghanta Ghar' (clock tower). In the picture below the top of the clock tower is visible in the centre.

Tehri Town in Year 2005

Of course, now even that as well as any other structure remaining has also gone under water.

That is the price the locals had to pay for the so called development. The locals were given land for agriculture and housing several hundred feet above the level at which they were earlier residing leading to a complete (and devastating) change in their living/working conditions as from a moderate climate they were forced to stay in a cold climate.

Rural Life in Chakrata

Rural life in the hills has always enchanted me. Here are a few shots of the area in Uttarakhand near the town of Chakrata

A Village Beauty

While walking on a trek met this woman who was sitting outside her home and who invited me to sit and rest and chat with her for a while. She must have been in her fifties or even sixties but still retained the beauty of her earlier years. Look at her tattooed hand. Most women, and even men, in rural areas earlier had parts of their bodies tattooed. Only in the urban areas this is a new trend and that also once it caught their fancy because the western civilization was doing it.

Multi-tasking Hearth

The concept of multi-burner gas ovens is a recent phenomenon, at least in India. But five things can be cooked at the same time on the hearth in the picture above!

A local dish

The dish above is made after drying and grinding of 'khurmani' a dry fruit from the peach family which is then dried in the sun for several days. And it is grounded in this stone grinder lying out in the open.

A Stone Grinder

A Traditional Tile Roofed House

 Most houses in this area have slate tiled roofs and are normally at least two storied and sometimes more than two storied as well. The ground floor, normally, houses the animals like cows, goats, sheep and other such domestic animals and the first floor is used by the family for cooking, living and sleeping purposes. This serves two purposes. First the animals can be given good shelters as well as place for the fodder. Secondly, the heat generated by the animals also keeps the floor above warm in winters.

A Natural Storage Space

I noticed that several villagers keep the hay on the trees. This keeps the hay from getting spoilt if lying on the ground and also keeps it safe from stray animals eating it.

Lakhamandal- An Architectural Delight

Lakhamandal is a small place in Uttrakhand where  a temple of Nagara style was built in the 12th -13th Century AD and is devoted to the Indian god Shiva.

The Shiva Temple at Lakhamandal

 A large number of sculptures and architectural remains are also spread in the nearby area though only this temple has survived. 

Another view of the same temple

The Archeological Survey of India has unearthed several lingams (phallus) of various sizes indicating that this was an important site about 800 years back.

A sculpture at Lakhamandal

The place also has mythological importance and it is believed by many that a palace was built of 'Lakh' (shellac) to kill the Pandavas.

The Village of Lakhamandal with the temple in the background

The place also houses a museum which has recently been opened but is not very well maintained.There are for example no details mentioned about the period of the sculpture or any other detail. It was also not very well lit inside.

 

A typical house in the Village of Lakhamandal

Little windows in the houses!

Lakhamandal is approximately 45 kms if you are coming from Chakrata side. Incidentally, once I had crossed Chakrata town I did not see another vehicle till I reached this place. So one has to be sure that your vehicle is in good shape and the petrol tank is full. The road, though metalled, is not in very good shape. And though there are several villages enroute, surprisingly, there is no bus service in this part of Uttarakhand. Compared to this one can get a state road transport corporation bus in almost all remote areas of Himachal.