Places to visit in Manali: Jogini Waterfalls

At the Jogini Waterfalls

During my last trip to Manali I stayed at Vashisht which is about 3 km from Manali. It is less crowded and has better views of the mountains. But it was only when I had gone to Old Manali that I noticed from far off there is a big waterfall above Vashisht.

View of Jogini Waterfalls from Old Manali

So I decided to go trekking there. The trek to the lower base of the Jogini waterfall is an easy one from the Vashisht temple. Beyond the temple you pass through the narrow lanes of the village and then once you come out of the village the walk is very pleasant among the pine woods and small rivulets.

The trek to Jogini falls goes through beautiful Pine forest

There are a few eating joints also on the way till the Jogini shrine. The shrine and the area are considered holy by the locals. To reach the lower waterfalls there is a slight climb after the shrine.

The Jogini shrine near the waterfall

Majority of the locals and tourists come only to the lower Jogini waterfalls as it is easily approachable.

The lower Jogini Waterfall

At the lower Jogini waterfall I met a gentleman who runs a hotel in Manali who discouraged me to go the upper Jogini waterfall stating that it will take me at least 45 minutes of hard climb to reach the top as I am a city dweller. Fortunately I did not heed to his advice and went up the path.

The lower Jogini waterfall as seen from above while climbing higher up

The trek from the lower waterfall to the upper comes in the category of a moderate climb. On this stretch there are no kiosks and no water till you reach the waterfall so it is advisable to carry your own water and eatables. While climbing one can see the lower waterfall as well as the scenic view of the valley and the Beas River and the snow clad mountains. There are plenty of wild flowers blooming making your trek more pleasant.

The upper Jogini Waterfall

I reached the upper Jogini waterfall in another twenty minutes and was mesmerized by the view. Unlike the lower Jogini waterfall the upper one falls over an overhanging rock and therefore has a free fall.

Rainbow at the Jogini waterfall

As it was the second half of the day the sun created beautiful rainbows on the falls. The spray from the waterfall also cooled me after the climb. I spent about an hour there soaking in nature at its best and then it was time to head back.

Places to visit in Narnaul: Chor Gumbad

Chor Gumbad, Narnaul

I have been crossing Narnaul over the years and used to notice an old structure from the road but somehow did not see it up close. Now it is no longer visible from the road as residential houses hide the view from the road. This time, despite the fact that I was passing the place very early in the morning, I decided to stop over and see the place.

Chor Gumbad, Narnaul basking at Sunrise

The structure is located on top of a hillock in the sleepy town of Narnaul. It was built by Jamal Khan, an Afghan during the reign of Feroz Shah Tughlaq (1351 to 1388 AD) as his tomb. What I heard from the locals though is that right now there is no tomb inside. It is a square shaped building with minarets at each corner. Though the administration has done some repairs to the structure but it has also closed all access to go inside the building by putting a closed perimeter fence with grills. So one can only look at the Chor Gumbad from a distance.

A dawn, Statue of Subhas Chandra Bose and a man doing Yoga

Over the centuries the place got into a state of disrepair and it became a hiding place for the thieves and vagabonds and that is why it probably acquired the name of Chor Gumbad (the dome where the thieves reside).

Chor Gumbad from a distance with the statue of Bose in the foreground

During the current days the local administration has developed a park with walking paths encircling the structure. It seems to be popular among the locals for morning and evening walks as well as a place for doing Yoga etc as I believe there are not too many parks in the city (and at that one which is well maintained and has a beautiful backdrop!). There is also a statue of Subhas Chandra Bose.

A well maintained park is popular among morning walkers at the Chor Gumbad 

Despite being arguably the most important historical building of the town there is just a small signboard. Haryana Tourism department must make proper signage’s to encourage tourists to visit the site.

Another view of the Park at Chor Gumbad, Narnaul

Narnaul, a small town in Haryana, is about 170 km from Delhi on the Delhi-Rewari-Khetri route and can be reached by road in about three and half hours. It is also the district headquarters of Mahendragarh District

Also read:
Dhosi Hills
Rural Tourism

Buddhist Vestiges of Sanghol, Punjab

One would not associate Buddhism with Punjab in the current era. But you would be surprised (at least I was) that Buddhism was thriving in Punjab 2100 years ago.

Buddhist Stupa site at Sanghol, Punjab

This is corroborated by the fact that recently (in comparative terms) Stupa and monasteries were unearthed in Sanghol on the Chandigarh-Ludhiana highway. (Stupa contains relics of a Buddhist teacher.) Sanghol is also called Ucha Pind (high village) as it is situated on a mound. Seven sites in the village were excavated by the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) from1968 to 1990. Two of these are significantly important which I visited and are called SGL5 and SGL11.

View from the entrance of SGL5 Buddhist Stupa site at Sanghol

The larger site contains the bigger Stupa having three concentric circles with spoke-like radial walls raised on a square platform. It has a diameter of 16 meters on a 17 meter square platform.

Concentric circles placed on a square platform, Sanghol Buddhist Stupa site

The smaller site also has a Stupa but much smaller in size. Both the sites also have Vihara (residences for the monks). What has been excavated is only the base which was mainly below the ground as the super structure was completely destroyed (by man or nature over time). Maybe the ASI should reconstruct at one of the sites to give a feel of the place as it was at that time.

The smaller Stupa at SGL11 Buddhist Stupa site, Sanghol

A rich treasure of 69 pillars and 35 cross bars have been unearthed from Sanghol containing figures of Yakshis and Salabhanjikas (art motifs of the Kushan period). Also found on the site were seals and pottery of the Late Harappan period. These are no longer on the site and have been placed in the Archaeological Museum at Sanghol. As both the sites are out in the open a security fencing around both the places have been put up to prevent encroachment.

The squarish ones were the living quarters of the monks, Buddhist Stupa site SGL11, Sanghol

Teja Singh, an employee of the ASI was kind enough to show me the first site and explain about the place. Not only that - he has a hidden talent of Punjabi folk music – and he enthralled me with the rendition of few folk songs with the accompaniment of Tumba.

Teja Singh with his Tumba

The Tourism Department of Punjab should give more publicity to such a great heritage site.

Places to visit in Delhi: Mirza Ghalib ki Haveli

I have been to the Chandni Chowk area in Old Delhi a few times over the years but this is the first opportunity I had to visit Mirza Ghalib ki Haveli in Ballimaran. Unfortunately very few Delhites are aware of Ghalib ki Haveli. Or they don’t care. The indifference to the cultural past is amazing. 

The arched entrance to Mirza Ghalib's Haveli

Mirza Ghalib is arguably the best known poet in Urdu and Persian that Delhi (and arguably again India) has produced. I was part of a photo-walk in the lanes of Chandni Chowk. Mirza Ghalib lived in this Haveli (though Haveli normally is supposed to be a grand structure this place is not big). Before Delhi government took over, the house was in poor condition and it was actually being used as a coal dump. 

The bust of Mirza Ghalib along with his poems

Now the place has been finally converted into a museum. The locals in Ballimaran are proud of their heritage. Ask anyone there the way to ‘Ghalib ki Haveli’ and their eyes light up in pride. “Ghalib Mia ko hamara aadab kahie ga!” (please greet Ghalib on our behalf) said a shopkeeper to us in chaste Urdu when we asked for directions.

The roof is not part of the original Haveli

The museum displays some of the poet’s handwritten poems, portraits and also a bust of Mirza Ghalib. He stayed in the Haveli from 1860 till his death in 1869. The Haveli has been aesthetically renovated even if it is surrounded by commercial enterprises on all sides. Old tiles are clearly visible. It is not the complete haveli but only a part of it. One must remember that India is not Europe. It does not have a tradition of converting houses of great poets and writers into museums. We spend a lot of tax-payers money and precious space in the capital of India on building and maintaining ugly samadhis (memorial) of politicians. This structure is an exception to the rule and we should be grateful that it exists at all. The house has undeniably the aura of the medieval period. You get goose pimples standing in the Haveli where the great poet of the melancholy once walked. 

The walls are adorned with Ghalib's writings & in one room it seems like he is writing his poems

Several of his poems have been further immortalised by the Bollywood as film songs. Couple of his poems that I remember are-
Hazaroon Khawhishen aisi ki har khawhish pe dum nikle
Bahut nikley mere armaan, lekin phir bhi kam nikle...

And another one-
Yeh na thi hamaari kismet ke wisaale yaar hota
Agar aur jeete rahte yahin intezaar hota...

With the portrait of Ghalib

How to reach: Mirza Ghalib ki Haveli is open on all days except Mondays and public holidays from 11 AM to 6 PM and the entry is free. Located in Gali Kasim Jaan in the Ballimaran area of Old Delhi one can reach it by alighting at the Chandni Chowk Metro Station and either walk (10-15 minutes) or take a rickshaw. Taking the metro is advisable at it frees you from the hassle of parking in this congested area but if you do want to go by car then park it near the Red Fort and then take a rickshaw from there.

Also read:
Places to Visit in Delhi: Humayun Tomb
Places to visit in Delhi: The Isa Khan’s Garden Tomb
Places to visit in Delhi: Ugrasen ki Baoli
The Changing Moods of Hauz Khas Lake

Places to visit in Delhi: The Isa Khan’s Garden Tomb

Most people have heard of the famous Humayun Tomb in Delhi but few know that within the Nizamuddin area there lies the Isa Khan’s Garden Tomb.

The Isa Khan Garden Tomb, Delhi

Though much smaller in size as compared to the Humayun Tomb it is a beautiful structure which actually predates Humayun Tomb by 20 years. It was built in 1547 AD during the lifetime of Isa Khan himself. Isa Khan was a noble in the court of Sher Shah Suri. It is probably the only surviving octagonal tomb complex. The canopied structure has beautiful glazed tiles and lattice screens (also known as Jaali) . Within this complex there is a red sandstone mosque that adds to its beauty. Like the Humayun Tomb this structure is also being maintained by the Aga Khan Trust and the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI).

Isa Khan Tomb in the foreground and the Mosque in the background

The Isa Khan Tomb complex is surrounded by beautiful gardens and high walls. In fact one can walk on these high walls which provide a much better view of the tomb and the mosque. Inside the structure I saw that like Humayun tomb this also contained not only the grave of Isa Khan but also several other graves as well. The lattice screens provide light as well as allow cool breeze inside.

The graves inside the Isa Khan complex - also observe the lattice screens

The inside of the dome has been painted by beautiful art work and also writings in Persian. Likewise the arches of the gates are also beautifully decorated.

The fresco on the inside of the dome of Isa Khan Tomb

The Isa Khan Tomb complex is a quieter and more beautiful place than its world renowned neighbour and is a worth seeing place if you are interested in gardens and Mughal and Lodhi architecture. It is part of the World Heritage Site Complex of Humayun Tomb.

Also read:
Places to Visit in Delhi: Humayun Tomb
Places to visit in Delhi: Ugrasen ki Baoli
The Changing Moods of Hauz Khas Lake

Sultanpur has more than just birds

The Sultanpur Bird Sanctuary (also known as the Sultanpur National Park) is just 15 km away from the millennium city of Gurgaon near Delhi. 

The Sultanpur Bird Sanctuary

The Bird Sanctuary is a habitat for local birds as well as migratory birds that come all the way from far off places like Siberia. 

A Purple Heron in flight

But the place should not be associated with birds only. I was surprised to see that several turtles were nesting there (difference between a turtle and tortoise is that turtle live in water and tortoise on land. Also the shell of turtle is shiny black whereas the tortoise may be dull in colour). 

A turtle at the Sultanpur National Park

Initially I could see only something shining so I thought either it is a reflection of the sun against the water or some bird nesting. It was only when I used my camera zoom that I realised that on the hay mounds in the water the shiny objects are turtles. It goes without saying that there were fish also in the water body as I did see one Pond Heron picking up a fish. 

Nesting turtles at the Sultanpur Bird Sanctuary

Also there are several Nilgai (An Asian Antelope or Blue Bull) in the sanctuary. There was one bunch of more than ten female Nilgai (a female Nigai is brown in colour) who were very playful.

Seems I was an attraction for these Nilgais at Sultanpur!

I was able to see the Nilgai racing past me at very close quarters. 

Two racing Nilgai

The two males (males are bluish in colour and hence the name Nilgai) remained aloof and did not mix with the herd or with each other! What was surprising was that these antelopes were very comfortable in crossing the water body. Till now I had never seen them in water.

A male Nilgai. Also see a peacock in the left corner & a Heron behind the Nilgai

The best time to visit the park is in winters as that is when the migratory birds come in big numbers. Also the park is closed in summers for some time to allow the birds a safe nesting period.

Also read:
This is also Gurgaon: The Sultanpur National Park

Hathnikund Barrage in Haryana

Hathnikund Barrage is at the foothills of the Himalayas in the Yamunanagar district of Haryana. It is about 40 km from the Yamunanagar town on the road to Paonta Saheb, a famous Sikh shrine 23 km ahead and Dehradun.

Scenic Hathnikund Barrage with the Hiamalaya foothills in the background 

The road is very good except the last part where you have to leave the National Highway and take the Major District Road (MDR). In fact it is hardly a road and it is not even a levelled kutcha (non-metalled) road.

Poor road conditions leading to & fro from Hathnikund

The Barrage works as a boundary between Haryana and Uttar Pradesh (UP). The MDR on the Haryana side is just 500 meters or so but if someone wants to come from the Uttar Pradesh after leaving the Yamunotri Highway then one has to cover about 12 kms of rough roads.

The Hathnikund Barrage

Neither Haryana nor Uttar Pradesh have made any efforts to develop the site as a tourist attraction despite its tremendous potential. There are no shops catering to the tourists. I could see only couple of sugarcane juice vendors. While talking to a local I was told that the hills have provided everything to the powers that be as well as the general population sitting in Delhi like water, electricity, wood (a major wood industry thrives in Yamunanagar) etc but the area providing everything remains poor and neglected.

Yamuna is just a trickle after the Hanthikund Barrage as water is channeled into the two canals

The Hathnikund Barrage has been built on the river Yamuna and from here the water is diverted into the Eastern and Western Yamuna canals. After the barrage the free flowing water of the Yamuna is just a trickle. The barrage forms a wetland which attracts migratory birds in the winters and some rafting activities from Paonta Saheb till here.

One of the canals after the Hathnikund Narrage

On the Uttar Pradesh side the road that I covered I saw several mango orchards but the economic condition of the villagers is still not good.

At a mango orchard producing the famous Dassahri

The Hathnikund Barrage was completed in 1999 and got operational in 2002 replacing the Tajewala Barrage three km downstream which was built in 1873.

This is a clarion call to the state governments’ of Haryana and Uttar Pradesh to encourage tourism here by providing basic infrastructure.

Beauty has an address...Oman

When I got an invite to attend a road show of Oman Tourism at Hyatt Regency in Delhi frankly speaking the destination image that I had of Oman was desert, desert and more desert.

Oman has something to offer to everyone

But all this perception changed dramatically when Lubaina Sheerazi, the India Representative of Oman Tourism took us on a journey to Oman via her presentation. It was then that I realised that Oman is so much different from other Middle-East countries.

It is a mix of culture, nature and adventure. Oman of course has deserts but also has a more than three thousand km long coast line with beautiful beaches and crystal clear water with ample opportunities for scuba diving, snorkeling and other activities. It also has mountain ranges where the temperatures are milder and in fact one can even get snow on the higher reaches. Due to this Oman also has plenty of hiking and rock climbing opportunities. Culturally it has the World’s biggest mosque, the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, and also has opera houses. And all this is just three hours away from India by short-haul flights.

Frankincense Candle

And it is a land of Frankincense! This world famous incense is made from the resin of the frankincense trees. It also has biblical context as one of the three gifts the wise men gave to baby Jesus. We were presented with frankincense candles.

Oman is now definitely on my bucket-list of places to visit.

This is also Gurgaon: The Sultanpur National Park

Gurgaon, the ‘Millennium City’, is known for its ugly multi-storied glass buildings, multinational companies, lack of basic infrastructure, potholed roads (in some places only potholes and no road!), fancy sounding British and American names of housing societies etc, basically a concrete jungle.

The vibrant colours of a Peacock in flight 

But few know that tucked away in a corner of the Gurgaon district is a paradise for local and migratory birds called the Sultanpur National Park (earlier it was known as Sultanpur Bird Sanctuary). It is just 15 km away from the Gurgaon city on the Gurgaon-Farrukhnagar road.

Spot Billed Ducks

I was a little late in visiting the sanctuary (March end) but this year the weather has been pleasant even in March, so I was still able to see lot of birds. There were few visitors and I was able to enjoy the place in its serenity.

White Breasted Kingfisher

I had reached there at 9 AM as per the timings on the website, but on reaching there I was told that it now opens at 7 AM. The government website requires some updating.

Black Winged Stilt

Visitors should not confuse this Sultanpur with another Sultanpur located in South Delhi. Two American ladies visiting the place were taken by their taxi to Sultanpur in Delhi wasting half of their day.

Cormorant

The birds I could recognise with my limited knowledge of birding were Black Drongo, Cormorant, Egret, Green Bee Eater, Indian Magpie Robin, Indian Pond Heron, Peacock, Purple Heron, Red Wattled Lapwing, Purple Swamphen, Spot Billed Duck, and White Breasted Kingfisher among others.

Egret

In fact I could count more than 30 Kingfishers during my visit. The best was when I got this Peacock in flight captured in its vibrant colours.

Green Bee Eater

There are several watchtowers inside the sanctuary. All but one is closed. I was able to climb up this one and get a bird's eye-view of the whole Bird Sanctuary.

Indian Magpie Robin

Also half the sanctuary is not accessible to the public. When I asked an official he gave me a strange logic that boys and girls come and do ‘mischief’ here.

Look what I got for breakfast: Indian Pond Heron with fish

Now this is not a way to manage things. They should in fact think of ways to improve the facility so that more birds make this their winter destination.

Purple Heron & Red Wattled Lapwing

I was also able to see several turtles (probably nesting) and a group of Nilgai (Asian Antelope) at the site.

Purple Heron

The best time to visit the Sanctuary is in the winters as migratory birds from Siberia and Europe come here.

Purple Swamphen

Do keep up to three hours for the walk in the sanctuary. Of course for the birdies even full day also won’t suffice!