VFS Global -- a Kafkaesk nightmare

Passport to travel

I belong to the elite club of JNU professors. We think the world of ourselves. We are waiting for a revolution, just as the Jews wait for their Messiah. Once in a while we are forced to venture out of the self-sufficient campus established on the Aravalli hills. Why? Silly. To apply for visa of course. We often get invited by this and that Western university as guest and visiting scholars. I decided to go to the Gurgaon VFS, with my visa application thinking it will be less crowded. “Your appointment is at 9 am. Please come 15 minutes early.” said the online mail. I’ll be free by 9.30, I thought and innocently I planned the rest of my day. Here is where my nightmare with VFS office begins. Till 10 am there is no staff in this dystopia except the Safai Karamchari. Finally one young woman troops in, unapologetic. After going through my check-list, she asks me to wait for the Bio-metric staff. The wait is futile. After having wasted the whole day, I demand that I be transferred to VFS Delhi. An email is sent to Delhi VFS to get rid of me. This place is worse than a Government Office, I crib. It should first introduce biometrics for its own staff. My husband nudges me gently: “Keep quiet. They can spoil your application.” Delhi is Delhi, I tell him undeterred but a little anxious. Next day, the airport metro takes me to the gates of VFS Global. It was the first time I was travelling by airport metro and I was indeed impressed. Then start the problems. My water bottle and the humble biscuits I always carry in my bag are not allowed inside. Security is so tight that you can barely breathe. The gate-keeper would not let me in without an appointment letter. It takes me nearly an hour of argumentation, pleading and grovelling to get in. The words of the doorkeeper in Kafka’s famous parable Before the Law resound in my head: “I am powerful. And I am only the least of the doorkeepers. From hall to hall there is one doorkeeper after another, each more powerful than the last.” Why do I feel claustrophobic despite air-conditioning? Waiting for my turn, I soak in the surreal surroundings. It is a truly Kafkaesk world. Badly paid employees, all in early twenties, in ill-fitting, low-waist black trousers and velvet shirts, stuttering around like peacocks, enveloped in an aura of authority. Indians have a deep love for uniform. It starts with schools, the malls, the guards, the auto drivers and what not. Nowhere in the world does one see such an intense culture of uniform.

My turn comes fast. The young man at the counter has terrible nails. Must be a hard-core nail biter, I imagine. Well, with a job like this it is inevitable. Cash or card? Card. Access denied. Once, twice, thrice. You have only one card, he asks astonished. What about cash? No, then come again with a fresh appointment. How long will that take? I don’t know. My cup of sorrows is full. They cannot harass me in this manner, I am Prof in JNU my head screams. The echo replies back “darling, you are not at home.” You leave your den and the world pounces on you. All of a sudden the young man looks at his phone and says excitedly “twins”. The neighbour in the next booth congratulates him. Should he not be in the hospital, I ask myself. Probably no leave. He looks at me in the eye, smiles and directs me to an ATM where I could try my luck. Expecting absolutely nothing from machines, humans or the gods, I drag my tired feet to the ATM. Cash tumbles out! I dash back and the rest is history.

I am relieved to be back in the sanctuary called JNU. Recuperating from the ordeal, I try to find something positive in the experience. Maybe the Monaco biscuits will be eaten by some poor, hungry children. I wonder, how will the embassy treat my application? Am I really a Guest Scientist or an intruder? Also I cannot help wondering why we complain about Western arrogance when our own people are so mean to each other?  I sigh, I seek azadi from this absurd world.

Meanwhile I plan my revenge. You are reading it!

Note: This is a Guest Post.

Food Review: Amritsari Kulche at Breakfast Point

Amritsari Kulche with Chole and Tamarind Chutney

Chole-Kulche is a popular fast food in the northern parts of India and is available at every nook and corner is most towns and cities. Most of the Kulchas (flatbread made of maida) though are made of maida (wheat flour without the bran) and lots of oil/ghee is put on it.

However, one joint that I have now visited thrice serves real authentic Amritsari Kulche. Unlike the normal kulcha the Amristsari Kulcha is made of wheat flour and is stuffed. It was just a matter of chance that I discovered the place called Breakfast Point in Prashant Vihar of Rohini in Delhi. I was passing by and noticed the board and since I was hungry I decided to give it a try. The Amristsari Kulcha is served with delicious chole (Chick peas) and tamarind chutney sprinkled with chopped onions. One can order either a single Kulcha (Rs 60) or a full plate having two kulcha (Rs 100).

The food is so yummy that despite the fact that there is hardly a place to sit (only two tables – eight pax - for sitting) but people stand and eat at the standing tables placed outside the shop. Lot many customers also order on phone as it has a free delivery service as well. If you are to go on weekends then be prepared to wait for sometime to be served due to the rush. I even saw few persons being served in their parked cars.

For eating this is the only thing on the menu. If you want something to drink then there is either sweet or the salted lassi (buttermilk). In fact I think such joints which have a fixed small menu are more successful as they served more authentic food then the ones putting several items on their menu but not able to make any one of them properly.

Though the Breakfast Point would get either no points or maximum a single star for their ambiance but for quality and taste they are finger licking good.

Also read:
Pundit Gaya Prasad Shiv Charan Paranthe Wala Restaurant

Places to visit in Delhi: Safdarjung Tomb

Safdarjung Tomb viewed from the arch of  the entrance gate

The Safdarjung Tomb could be considered as the ‘last flicker of the lamp of Mughal architecture’ in Delhi. Though on a smaller scale, compared to the grandeur of the Humayun’s Tomb, it is still no less beautiful.

The entrance gate of the Safdarjung Tomb

There is an ornamental gate at the entrance. Also there is a three domed mosque on the right side of the entrance though it is not being maintained properly.

The three domed mosque at the Safdarjung Tomb Complex

Safdarjung Tomb was built in 1753-54 by Nawab Shujau’d-Daulah in memory of his father Mirza Muqim Abdul Mansur Khan or Safdarjung who was the Governor of Awadh under Muhammad Shah. 

Tomb of Safdarjung

Red and buff color sandstone has been used for construction of the tomb. Marble has been used for the flooring, inlay work and the dome.

Floral pattern on the domes of the Safdarjung Tomb

The domes have interesting floral patterns. The tomb is encircled with beautiful and well maintained garden which is in the shape of Charbagh or quadrilateral garden.

The gardens, water channels and the pavallions at the Safdarjung Tomb Complex

The gardens are then surrounded by pavallions which were used as resting places. The Southern pavallion is called Badshah Pasand or the King's Choice, Northern one is Moti Mahal or the Pearl Palace and the Western side as Jangli Mahal or the Palace in the Woods.

The Safdarjung Tomb, Delhi

The Safdarjung Tomb is not very crowded compared to the Humayun Tomb so one can really enjoy the place at leisure. Since the ticket is not very exorbitant, I noticed lot of young couples sitting in the gardens who had no romance for the the monument but for each other only! Safdarjung Tomb is a protected monument of the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI).

Side view of the Safdarjung Tomb

I wonder why the ASI or other relevant authorities do not have some decent tea, coffee and snacks kiosks as people come from far off and would like to rest and spend some time at the monument. Also I did not see any ramps for the disabled to use wheel chairs.

Situated right next to the Safdarjung Airport (not a functional commercial airport) and very close to the Lodhi Gardens, Safdarjung Tomb is a must see place if one is interested in history and architecture. If you plan to go by the metro then the Jorbagh Metro station is the closest to the monument.

Also read:
Places to Visit in Delhi: Humayun Tomb
Places to Visit in Delhi: Qutub Minar, Alai Minar and the Iron Pillar
Places to visit in Delhi: Mirza Ghalib ki Haveli
Places to visit in Delhi: The Isa Khan’s Garden Tomb
Places to visit in Delhi: Ugrasen ki Baoli

Places to Visit in Delhi: Qutub Minar, Alai Minar and the Iron Pillar

I have been to the magnificent Qutub Minar a few times. Recently I visited Qutub Minar with a Dutch friend and a German. Actually the area is not only about the Qutub Minar but there are several monuments within the same complex like the Alai Minar, the Iron Pillar, tombs of Imam Zamin and Alauddin Khalji, a mosque (Quwwatul-Islam Masjid) and a Madrassa (School/College). Therefore one must keep at least a couple of hours for sightseeing.

Qutub Minar and Alai Minar (on the left)

When we reached the ticket counter my friends got an unpleasant surprise that my entry ticket cost only Rs 30, but for the foreigners it is Rs 500 per person, 17 times over! Nowhere else in the world is there such a discrimination.

Qutub Minar is a UNESCO World Heritage Site

The structures have been restored painstakingly. It is commendable that the impression of fragments and ruins is maintained. The complex has well manicured gardens and paths. There are ramps also at a few places for the physically challenged persons. The location also provides a popular backdrop for Bollywood songs, particularly when the film is based in Delhi.

Calligraphy on the Qutub Minar

The Qutub Minar, at 73 meters, is the tallest brick minaret in the World and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Made of red sandstone and marble it has beautiful calligraphy on it.  As the name suggest the construction of this Minaret was started by the ruler Qutubddin Aibak in 1200 AD.

My happy friends under the arch of Quwwatul-Islam mosque & the Qutub Minar 

I remember climbing up its stairs as a kid but after a stampede in 1981 the public is not allowed to climb up the Qutub Minar.

The tomb of Imam Zamin, the Alai Darwaza and the Qutub Minar

The above photo has the Tomb of Imam Zamin in the foreground then the Alai Darwaza or the southern gateway to the Quwwatul-Islam Masjid. It has intricate carvings in red sandstone and marble. And also in the same frame is the Qutub Minar!

The Iron Pillar and the beautifully calligraphed arcged of the Quwwatul-Islam mosque

The seven meter tall Iron Pillar, a victory pillar, predates the Qutub Minar. It was erected first in Udyagiri during the Gupta period (402 AD) and established at its current location in 1233 AD. What is interesting is the non-corrosive property of the pillar that has withstood the vagaries of the Delhi weather over such a long time. I do remember people used to hug the pillar backwards for good luck earlier but now there is a small enclosure surrounding the pillar and one cannot touch the pillar anymore. The pillar has inscriptions written in Brahmi script of the Gupta period. Behind the Iron Pillar are the huge, beautifully cared arches of the Quwwatul-Islam Masjid.

The carved pillars of the  Quwwatul-Islam mosque

Quwwatul-Islam Masjid or mosque is the earliest mosque in India that is still surviving. It was constructed between 1193 and 1197 AD. The mosque was built by Qutbuddin Aibak and later enlarged by Shamsuddin Iltutmish and Alauddin Khalji. It has massive stone screen and arches. The screen is carved with inscriptions. The pillars have carvings that have human and animal figurines. This is definitely non-Islamic and it is believed that these pillars were brought from temples from elsewhere.

The Madrassa and the tomb of Alauddin Khalji

The Madrassa and the tomb of Alauddin Khalji (AD 1296-1316) have thick walls. This part of the complex is damaged to some extent as none of its buildings had a roof on it and some of the walls have also broken down.

The Alai Minar

Inspired by the grandness of Qutab Minar, Alauddin Khalji planned another minaret which would have been twice as tall as Qutub Minar called the Alai Minar. However only one storey was built and after his death the plan was shelved. Its diameter is the proof of it!

My friends were happy visiting the monuments but the humidity and heat of Delhi probably took its toll (it was Monsoon period) and it would have been nice if there was a cafeteria inside the complex to recharge our batteries. It is unfortunate that despite the expensive entry ticket, there is no place for the tourists to even enjoy a cold drink.

In the first photo of this post I was able to capture both the Qutub Minar and the Alai Minar in a single frame. The photo was taken a couple of km away from the complex.

The Qutub Minar complex is located in Mehrauli in South Delhi and can be reached by bus, auto, taxi and the metro. The Delhi metro has a station named Qutub Minar which is the nearest from this complex.

Also read:
Places to visit in Delhi: Mirza Ghalib ki Haveli
Places to visit in Delhi: The Isa Khan’s Garden Tomb
Places to visit in Delhi: Ugrasen ki Baoli
Places to Visit in Delhi: Humayun Tomb

Foot-tapping Fusion Drums Music from Ghana, Africa

I recently had the opportunity to attend the Indo Africa Cultural Confluence which has coincided with the Indo-African Summit currently being held in Delhi. 

Fusion Drums music performance from Ghana

The event was organised by the Delhi International Arts Festival at Nehru Park in Delhi. There were performances of whirling dervish of Egypt, dance & music of Ethiopia & fusion drums of Ghana. Besides this the Indian band Delhi Inde Project also known as Dilli Wala Band also rendered some rock Sufi music.

The drum performances by the Ghana team was superb. Listen and see the small video of their performance here-

A short video of Fusion Drums music from Ghana

More such performances should be held so that we can listen and see the music and culture of the world.

Also read:
Sufiana Music by Bandanawazi Qawwals
European Day of Languages - Enthralling Performance
Wise Guys and the Maharaj Trio for the Butterflies

Sufiana Music by Bandanawazi Qawwals

I spent an enjoyable evening listening to the Qawalis & Sufiana Music by Bandanawazi Qawwals from Hyderabad. The event was organised at the Epicentre in Gurgaon as part of the Delhi International Arts Festival 2015.

The Bandanawazi Qawwals rendering Sufi music

One of the living descendants of this famous band of people is Ateeq Hussein Khan Bandanawazi. Born in 1980 in Hyderabad to a family of classical Sufiana qawwals, he belongs to the Rampur Sahaswan Gharana of musicians. Besides learning Qawwali from his father Ustad Iqbal Hussein Khan Bandanawazi from a very early age, he also picked up various forms of classical music like Dhrupad, Khayal, Thumri, Dadra, Tarana and Bhajan.

The evening started with the soulful song Kahe ko Byahi Bidesh – by Amit Khusrau – the best known Sufi poet that Delhi has produced. He lived from 1253 to 1325 CE and was the best known disciple of Hazrat Nizamuddin Auliya of Delhi. Indians may have heard this song umpteen times as it is played at almost all weddings at the time of departure of the bride from her parents house.

They mesmerised the audience with the rendition of Chaap Tilak Sab Cheeni – again by Amir Khusrau

This was followed by Bhar Do Jholi Meri –popularised more recently by the film Bajrangi Bhijaan. Do hear the clipping given below.

Bhar Do Jholi Meri sung by Bandanawazi Qawwals

Last, but not the least, was the ever popular song Dumdum Mast Kalandar. I have heard Runa Laila, Abida Parveen, Nusrat Fateh Ali Khan, Sabri Brothers and others rendition of this song earlier.

Dumdum Mast Kalandar sung by Bandanawazi Qawwals

The evening was supposed to have commenced with of Qawalis & Sufiana Music by Ayaz Nizami Qawwals from Pakistan. But because of the recent happenings in Bombay & Delhi we were deprived of listening to them. At least the Bandanawazi Qawwals did not disappoint! They got a standing ovation by an appreciative audience. The auditorium was full on Dussehra/Durga Puja holiday.

Also read:
Sufi Music by Sabri Brothers
Sufi Dervish Dance

Travelling through Alma Mater, JNU

After several years I got a chance to visit, rather revisit JNU, my alma mater. It is hard for an outsider to think of JNU, a 1000 acre campus, as part of the congested capital city. There are plenty of open spaces, even wild, practically untouched spaces.

The various JNU school buildings in the foreground with Vasant Kunj in the background

The Aravali hill on which JNU is located, is lush green, especially in monsoons. Despite many new university buildings coming up in the past few years, the forest-like impression persists and there is still a lot of undergrowth.

The JNU Library

The green cover and the buildings are integrated together in such a way that they blend into each other.

Purvanchal & Mahanadi hostels in the foreground with Qutub Minar in the background

The aerial shots from the top floor (10th floor) of the university central library show a dense green cover. The Mehrauli area in general and Qutub Minar in particular is clearly visible.

Qutub Minar & Alai Minar seen from JNU

The Alai Minar, the unfinished Qutub Minar like structure which Alauddin Khilji planned to build two times higher than Qutub Minar is also visible.

Adham Khan's tomb in Mehrauli seen from JNU

The Adham Khan’s tomb in the Mehrauli area is also clearly visible from the JNU.

NII, Munirka in the foreground and Lotus Temple in the background as seen from JNU

On a clear day, one can even see the Lotus Temple and Nehru Place which are several km away. If you observe the photo carefully you can see the lotus temple in the far centre. Only when I saw the photo at leisure on the laptop, I realised that the photo captures the temple.

The new manicured look of JNU campus

Fortunately, the nature is allowed to be, although there seem to be attempts here-and-there to give it a manicured lawn look with potted plants and hedges that, in my view, looks out of place with the overall grandeur of undergrowth and huge trees.

The campus is ideal for walking, jogging and cycling. JNU is a paradise for bird-watchers. Peacocks are common. Some JNU residents swear that they have seen owls and snakes. Wolfs and Nilgais (Asian Antelope or Blue Bull) are not exactly uncommon. Caves exploration and rock-climbing is another activity which I indulged in during my student days here.

Parthsarthi Rocks, JNU

And how can I complete this post without mentioning Parthasarathi Rocks (named after the first VC of JNU). It is the highest natural vantage point in JNU and functions as an open auditorium and venue for various late-night parties. One can sit and view the beautiful sunsets from here.

The ASUS #ZenFestival 2015

Recently Asus organised Zen Festival at the Jawaharlal Nehru Stadium in Delhi. I thought it would be a small gathering of media and bloggers but when I reached there I found that more than two thousand persons have been invited for the Indian launch of six of their products!

VJ Cyrus Sahukar at the ZenFestival

The ZenFestival was anchored by the famous VJ Cyrus Sahukar who entertained the audience by his witty comments.

Brilliant performance by flying drummers at the ZenFestival

The programme started with a dazzling performance by flying drummers who were supported by two acrobatic dancers on the stage. In fact the performance was highlight of the event and it was superb.

ASUS Chairman Jonney Shih

ASUS Chairman Jonney Shih announced latest additions to ZenFone & ZenPad families. He announced not one but India launch of six of their new products ZenFone 2 Deluxe, ZenFone Selfie, ZenFone 2 Laser, ZenPad 7.0 and ZenPad 8.0, and worldwide launch of ZenFone Max

Sonakshi Sinha launching Zenfone Selfie

Zenfone Selfie was launched by the famous Bollywood actress Sonakshi Sinha. The photographers from the media went crazy and almost stampeded the stage in order to get the perfect click. The organisers should keep marshals to keep such behaviour in check. The Zenfone Selfie would become the choice of millions of selfie clickers as it has 13 MP camera in the front as well as back!

Zenny the mascot of Zenfone

Zenny the mascot of Asus Zenfone was also there to entertain the audience.

The programme concluded with a late lunch which I decided to skip as it was too crowded.

Note: I was invited to the ZenFestival 2015 by the organisers.

Happy Independence Day

India got its independence on this day (15 August 1947). I wish all my readers a Happy Independence Day.

March of Freedom

However, the independence of 1947 was only from one tyrant. India is still shackled by several others. May we all get freedom from all the other shackles (you know what I am talking about) and be truly independent.

The above photo is a statue called Gyarah Murti or Eleven Statues made by the well-known sculptor Devi Prasad Roy Chowdhary depicting the famous Dandi March (or the Salt Movement) led by Mahatma Gandhi in 1931. It shows Gandhi leading ten others on the Dandi March. It is located on the Wellingdon Crescent or what is now known as Mother Teresa Crescent road in Delhi. It is visible while going from the Airport on the Sardar Patel Marg. Those of you who have not visited Delhi may still be familiar with this statue as it is also printed on the 500 rupee currency.

Furniture Market, Amar Colony, New Delhi

Many Delhiites have never heard of Amar Colony. It has no famous sightseeing places or famous uptown or downtown markets. 

Amar Colony Antiques Market, New Delhi

But ask anyone in Delhi who is interested in antiques, particularly furniture and he/she will direct you to the Flea Market /Antiquarian tucked away in a by-lane of Amar Colony behind the prestigious women’s college Lady Sri Ram, near Moolchand Flyover. Not a single shop is a permanent or legal structure. Yet it has been a ‘permanent’ feature since Partition of India, when millions of Punjabi refugees fled to the capital in the hope of starting a new life. Some of the enterprising Sikhs (I am told it is a single family) started the business of selling antique furniture. Last time I was there, a bureaucrat had passed orders for shutting down the market and vacating public land. Phone calls were being made frantically. However bureaucrats come and go. The market has withstood the test of time. 

One of the second generation proprietors at Amar Colony Furniture Market  

Interesting is the profile of the owners and also those who frequent this market! Sikhs, so fair that they could pass for Afghans, own these shops and they also live nearby in Amar Colony. A few of them attend to the customers wearing the traditional Sikh attire of blue robe and yellow belt. On Guru Purab (holy days for the Sikh community) the market is shut down and all owners, young and old, participate in the religious procession. The carpenters are mostly from Bihar and UP. Behind the market they make new furniture mostly with Victorian, South Indian, Kashmiri, British Shimla and Rajasthani designs. New wood, new workers, old design! The visitors are mostly the educated, slightly crazy /alternate kind of people and of course foreigners with taste and an eye for tradition and a good bargain. One has to sift through old and new artefacts. There are wooden almirahs, doors, mirrors, benches, chairs, side tables, chests, dressing tables, jharokhas, stools, wall clocks, Buddhas, masks etc. precariously perched over one another. You need to have that instinct: This is what I want!!! With time the flow of antiques to the market has decreased and new furniture is taking over. But these are not bad either. Old tiles are added to new furniture. It is the blend of the Old and the New that is interesting. 

My collection from Amar Colony Market!

I have several pieces of furniture from the market and I am happy with them. No plywood, no plastic, they are made of real wood! Some items do look kitch, but like I said, you have to sift patiently through this dusty world to find a gem of a vintage item. You may be disappointed also. After all you come with high expectations. All said and done, a surreal place in modernity, it has a charm of its own in the age of malls and online-shopping.

Optimum use of space in one of the shops in Amar Colony

After browsing through the 15 odd shops, one feels hungry. Nearby is the bazaar catering to the taste buds of the young college crowd. While your furniture is being polished, you can order steamed momos at the Tibetan restaurant or Tandoori momos at the road-side kiosks!

The Langar in Sis Ganj Gurudwara, Delhi

Langar is a Sikh tradition that probably has roots in the Sufi tradition of sharing.

Langar at Sis Ganj Gurudwara, Delhi

Big and historic Gurudwaras in Delhi like Sis Ganj, Rakab Ganj, Bangla Sahib, Damdama Sahib and some others have reserved a separate hall for the community kitchen where food is served round the clock to devotees. This too is a sacred space. Till some decades ago Langar was served on leaves stitched together and people would take a small part of it home for the family members but now there are steel plates and spoons. Everything from pealing, cooking, serving and dish-washing is done by volunteers. 

The kitchen in Sis Ganj Gurudwara

No one is turned away from the Langar. It always amazes me that the Langar is so well organised when everything else in India is so chaotic. The sangat (congregation of the faithful) sits in a pangat (line) and they partake in the Langar which comprises of chapatti (Indian bread), rice, daal (lentil) and a vegetable. Hundreds of kilos of lentils and vegetables are cooked in super-size vessels. Food is cooked in Desi Ghee (clarified butter) and the kitchen is there for devotees and tourists to inspect. There are no signs outside the kitchen saying ‘No Entry’ or ‘Entry Restricted’. The Indian bread, Chapati or Roti, has always been made by hand, again by volunteers, but now there is also a huge machine in the kitchen of the Sis Ganj Gurudwara that makes/bakes the chapatis. One can easily make out the difference between hand-made and machine-made rotis. The food is fresh and vegetarian. It is simple and delicious. In fact, it is in bad taste to pick faults with the Langar because it is sacred. For the same reason one should not waste it. Eat it, or take it home for your family. 

The day I visited Sis Ganj Gurudwara in Old Delhi, pumpkin was being peeled and chopped for the evening Langar.

Pumpkins under preparation for the Langar at Sis Ganj Gurudwara

What is the intention behind the tradition of Langar? The idea is not to feed the poor. The idea is that all are equal and to prove this the rich and the poor, so-called low castes and high castes, men and women, children, sit together in a common space and eat the same food. Has the Sikh project of equality succeeded? That is another question. Equality is, all said and done, a utopian concept. Theoretically it sounds good, but in praxis it fails to materialize. The French Revolution and the Russian Revolution could not create equal and just societies. But what is the harm in imagining for half an hour that we are all equal?

Pundit Gaya Prasad Shiv Charan Paranthe Wala Restaurant

Rocky and Mayur have ventured out to explore food from all parts of India and curate videos on Askme.com I'm contributing my part by relishing my favorite dishes at Restaurant Pundit Gaya Prasad Shiv Charan Paranthe Wala and sharing my views with you all!

You can also upload your video review on AskMe and stand a chance to meet Rocky and Mayur.

I recently visited Chandni Chowk area in Old Delhi and how could I miss Paranthe Wali Gali. It was morning time and I was with a group of 15 blogger friends out for a photo-walk. We decided to check on Pundit Gaya Prasad Shiv Charan Paranthe Wala. They have been serving since 1872 i.e. for nearly 150 years! As the name suggest they specialise in Paranthas (an Indian flat bread) of various kinds. In fact you will be amazed to know that they serve more than 25 different kinds of paranthas. Unlike paranthas elsewhere here they are actually deep fried and that also in Desi Ghee (Clarified butter). 

Paranthas are deep fried here

I tried their Gobi (cauliflower) parantha, Rabri (dish made with yoghurt and flour) parantha, tomato parantha and Nimbu (lemon) parantha and all of them were yummy. In the plate they also served two different kinds of Chutni, along with Chole and two vegetables.  

Gobi Parantha at Pundit Gaya Ram Shiv Charan

Along with the paranthas their Gajar (carrot) and Muli (Radish) pickle in vinegar in itself was so tasty that even before the parathas arrived we had attacked the pickle. 

The carrot and radish pickle in vinegar is very tasty

As it is a very old place it has a seating capacity of only 25 persons or so. And on weekends there is a long line of people waiting to be seated. If you stay in NCR and still have not visited Paranthe Wali Gali to savour the paranthas then do so now!

Places to visit in Delhi: Mirza Ghalib ki Haveli

I have been to the Chandni Chowk area in Old Delhi a few times over the years but this is the first opportunity I had to visit Mirza Ghalib ki Haveli in Ballimaran. Unfortunately very few Delhites are aware of Ghalib ki Haveli. Or they don’t care. The indifference to the cultural past is amazing. 

The arched entrance to Mirza Ghalib's Haveli

Mirza Ghalib is arguably the best known poet in Urdu and Persian that Delhi (and arguably again India) has produced. I was part of a photo-walk in the lanes of Chandni Chowk. Mirza Ghalib lived in this Haveli (though Haveli normally is supposed to be a grand structure this place is not big). Before Delhi government took over, the house was in poor condition and it was actually being used as a coal dump. 

The bust of Mirza Ghalib along with his poems

Now the place has been finally converted into a museum. The locals in Ballimaran are proud of their heritage. Ask anyone there the way to ‘Ghalib ki Haveli’ and their eyes light up in pride. “Ghalib Mia ko hamara aadab kahie ga!” (please greet Ghalib on our behalf) said a shopkeeper to us in chaste Urdu when we asked for directions.

The roof is not part of the original Haveli

The museum displays some of the poet’s handwritten poems, portraits and also a bust of Mirza Ghalib. He stayed in the Haveli from 1860 till his death in 1869. The Haveli has been aesthetically renovated even if it is surrounded by commercial enterprises on all sides. Old tiles are clearly visible. It is not the complete haveli but only a part of it. One must remember that India is not Europe. It does not have a tradition of converting houses of great poets and writers into museums. We spend a lot of tax-payers money and precious space in the capital of India on building and maintaining ugly samadhis (memorial) of politicians. This structure is an exception to the rule and we should be grateful that it exists at all. The house has undeniably the aura of the medieval period. You get goose pimples standing in the Haveli where the great poet of the melancholy once walked. 

The walls are adorned with Ghalib's writings & in one room it seems like he is writing his poems

Several of his poems have been further immortalised by the Bollywood as film songs. Couple of his poems that I remember are-
Hazaroon Khawhishen aisi ki har khawhish pe dum nikle
Bahut nikley mere armaan, lekin phir bhi kam nikle...

And another one-
Yeh na thi hamaari kismet ke wisaale yaar hota
Agar aur jeete rahte yahin intezaar hota...

With the portrait of Ghalib

How to reach: Mirza Ghalib ki Haveli is open on all days except Mondays and public holidays from 11 AM to 6 PM and the entry is free. Located in Gali Kasim Jaan in the Ballimaran area of Old Delhi one can reach it by alighting at the Chandni Chowk Metro Station and either walk (10-15 minutes) or take a rickshaw. Taking the metro is advisable at it frees you from the hassle of parking in this congested area but if you do want to go by car then park it near the Red Fort and then take a rickshaw from there.

Also read:
Places to Visit in Delhi: Humayun Tomb
Places to visit in Delhi: The Isa Khan’s Garden Tomb
Places to visit in Delhi: Ugrasen ki Baoli
The Changing Moods of Hauz Khas Lake