Places to visit in Delhi: Safdarjung Tomb

Safdarjung Tomb viewed from the arch of  the entrance gate

The Safdarjung Tomb could be considered as the ‘last flicker of the lamp of Mughal architecture’ in Delhi. Though on a smaller scale, compared to the grandeur of the Humayun’s Tomb, it is still no less beautiful.

The entrance gate of the Safdarjung Tomb

There is an ornamental gate at the entrance. Also there is a three domed mosque on the right side of the entrance though it is not being maintained properly.

The three domed mosque at the Safdarjung Tomb Complex

Safdarjung Tomb was built in 1753-54 by Nawab Shujau’d-Daulah in memory of his father Mirza Muqim Abdul Mansur Khan or Safdarjung who was the Governor of Awadh under Muhammad Shah. 

Tomb of Safdarjung

Red and buff color sandstone has been used for construction of the tomb. Marble has been used for the flooring, inlay work and the dome.

Floral pattern on the domes of the Safdarjung Tomb

The domes have interesting floral patterns. The tomb is encircled with beautiful and well maintained garden which is in the shape of Charbagh or quadrilateral garden.

The gardens, water channels and the pavallions at the Safdarjung Tomb Complex

The gardens are then surrounded by pavallions which were used as resting places. The Southern pavallion is called Badshah Pasand or the King's Choice, Northern one is Moti Mahal or the Pearl Palace and the Western side as Jangli Mahal or the Palace in the Woods.

The Safdarjung Tomb, Delhi

The Safdarjung Tomb is not very crowded compared to the Humayun Tomb so one can really enjoy the place at leisure. Since the ticket is not very exorbitant, I noticed lot of young couples sitting in the gardens who had no romance for the the monument but for each other only! Safdarjung Tomb is a protected monument of the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI).

Side view of the Safdarjung Tomb

I wonder why the ASI or other relevant authorities do not have some decent tea, coffee and snacks kiosks as people come from far off and would like to rest and spend some time at the monument. Also I did not see any ramps for the disabled to use wheel chairs.

Situated right next to the Safdarjung Airport (not a functional commercial airport) and very close to the Lodhi Gardens, Safdarjung Tomb is a must see place if one is interested in history and architecture. If you plan to go by the metro then the Jorbagh Metro station is the closest to the monument.

Also read:
Places to Visit in Delhi: Humayun Tomb
Places to Visit in Delhi: Qutub Minar, Alai Minar and the Iron Pillar
Places to visit in Delhi: Mirza Ghalib ki Haveli
Places to visit in Delhi: The Isa Khan’s Garden Tomb
Places to visit in Delhi: Ugrasen ki Baoli

Sanghol Archaeological Museum – a gem among museums

Normally one would associate museums with capitals or big cities. But the Sanghol Archaeological Museum is different in the sense that it is located at the site where the Harappan, Buddhist and Kushan period artefacts have been unearthed. 

Sanghol Archaeological Museum Building 

Located in Ucha Pind Sanghol the place has been inhabited from Late Harappan to Medieval to the current days. In fact during Kushan period of 1st to 3rd century AD this place was an important town and was on a trade route. The museums displays antiquities, sculptures, coins, household materials found in the excavation here.

Buddha Statue outside the Sanghol Museum

Two Buddhist Stupa sites here revealed the largest collection of sculptures belonging to the Mathura School of Art found outside Mathura. And these sandstone sculptures on pillars, railings, coping stones and crossbars are the pride of the museum. There were 118 pillars that were unearthed from the Sanghol site and about 60 of them are displayed in the museum and I must say they are in excellent condition.

Salabhanjikas on the railing pillars at the Sanghol Museum

There is a section on Salabhanjika which is an art motif of the Kushan period. It means the lady breaking the branches of the Sal tree.

Pillars depcting Gandharva and Salbhanjikas

There is a section of pillars where women are drinking wine. It tells us about the culture during that period when women use to openly partake liquor whereas in today’s world (Indian) it is considered as a bad habit even among men!

A woman dancing and balancing a pot on her elbow

There is a Toilette section where the pillars depict different aspects of beautiful young maiden’s toilet in a number of railing pillars – be it looking at themselves in the mirror or making braids of their long hair or a woman squeezing out water from her hair after bath. It goes on to prove that taking care of their beauty is an old art among women!

A Mother playing with her child

The round shape museum has only two floors. The first floor has seals and Late Harapppan pottery belonging to 2000 BC to 1200 BC, stone and terracotta objects as well as jewellery unearthed from the place.

A Jataka tale motif

There is a nominal entry fee of Rs 10 for adults and Rs 4 for children below 12 years of age and the Museum remain open on all days except Mondays from 10 to 4. Photography inside the museum is not allowed. If one wants then a special permission and payment of Rs 1100 have to be made at their office in Chandigarh. One can reach Sanghol from both Chandigarh (40 Km) and Ludhiana (55 Km) as it is located on the Chandigarh-Ludhiana highway. 

It is a must-visit museum for those who are interested in art and history and on top of that a history that dates back to Harappan civilization!

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Buddhist Vestiges of Sanghol, Punjab
Punjabi Folk Music

Buddhist Vestiges of Sanghol, Punjab

One would not associate Buddhism with Punjab in the current era. But you would be surprised (at least I was) that Buddhism was thriving in Punjab 2100 years ago.

Buddhist Stupa site at Sanghol, Punjab

This is corroborated by the fact that recently (in comparative terms) Stupa and monasteries were unearthed in Sanghol on the Chandigarh-Ludhiana highway. (Stupa contains relics of a Buddhist teacher.) Sanghol is also called Ucha Pind (high village) as it is situated on a mound. Seven sites in the village were excavated by the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) from1968 to 1990. Two of these are significantly important which I visited and are called SGL5 and SGL11.

View from the entrance of SGL5 Buddhist Stupa site at Sanghol

The larger site contains the bigger Stupa having three concentric circles with spoke-like radial walls raised on a square platform. It has a diameter of 16 meters on a 17 meter square platform.

Concentric circles placed on a square platform, Sanghol Buddhist Stupa site

The smaller site also has a Stupa but much smaller in size. Both the sites also have Vihara (residences for the monks). What has been excavated is only the base which was mainly below the ground as the super structure was completely destroyed (by man or nature over time). Maybe the ASI should reconstruct at one of the sites to give a feel of the place as it was at that time.

The smaller Stupa at SGL11 Buddhist Stupa site, Sanghol

A rich treasure of 69 pillars and 35 cross bars have been unearthed from Sanghol containing figures of Yakshis and Salabhanjikas (art motifs of the Kushan period). Also found on the site were seals and pottery of the Late Harappan period. These are no longer on the site and have been placed in the Archaeological Museum at Sanghol. As both the sites are out in the open a security fencing around both the places have been put up to prevent encroachment.

The squarish ones were the living quarters of the monks, Buddhist Stupa site SGL11, Sanghol

Teja Singh, an employee of the ASI was kind enough to show me the first site and explain about the place. Not only that - he has a hidden talent of Punjabi folk music – and he enthralled me with the rendition of few folk songs with the accompaniment of Tumba.

Teja Singh with his Tumba

The Tourism Department of Punjab should give more publicity to such a great heritage site.

Places to visit in Mumbai: Elephanta Caves - a World Heritage Site

Elephanta Caves, located on the Elephanta Island can be reached by a ferry from the Gateway of India, Bombay. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. 

Trimurti, Elephanta Caves

Distance from Bombay: 10 km
Duration of Ferry: one hour, first ferry at 9 a.m.
Price: Rs 160 to-and-fro (as of October 2015)
Monday closed
Ticket: Rs 10 for the village and Rs 10 for the caves. Foreigners have to pay Rs 250.

Elephanta hills and the Arabian Sea

Then there is a toy train for a km or less and then a steep ascent of about 120 steps. October is not the best month for this excursion. You need stamina and lots of water intake. Those with knee problems should stay away. There are lots of shops selling all kinds of stuff but the most sought ones are food stalls selling raw mangoes, starfruit (amrack) and lemon water. Many of them are run by women.

The entrance to the Elephanta cave 1

These rock-cut temple caves dated between 5 and 7 Century CE comprise of five Hindu caves dedicated to Lord Shiva and two Buddhist caves at a distance of about 2 km. 

Grand pillars at Elephanta cave 1

The latter are closed to public and amongst the five Hindu caves only the first cave is worth the trouble. The other caves are almost empty except for the presence of a shivling. In that sense there is a slight sense of disappointment. 

Gangadhara Shiva & Parvati

However Cave 1 is a magnificent structure. It is a grand cave with huge pillars and huge sculptures, many of them fragments. The fragments speak for the glorious art in ancient India. Most of the panels depict Lord Shiva and Parvati. Then there is a huge Trimurti (first photo in this post) sculpture depicting the three faces of Shiva: the creator, the preserver and the destroyer. It is said that the Portuguese colonisers destroyed many of these grand narratives, including the elephant structure that gave the island its name.

Shiva as Yogisvara

Visitors who came 10-15 years ago say the caves were dirty and stinking. The last time I visited the caves was in 1985 of which I have only some hazy memories. But now that they are managed by Archaeological Survey of India (ASI), they are clean and there are guards to prevent vandalising. There are toilet facilities. Monkeys are however a nuisance.

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Karla Buddhist Caves near Pune
Places to visit in Mumbai: The Haji Ali Dargah

Places to visit in Delhi: The Isa Khan’s Garden Tomb

Most people have heard of the famous Humayun Tomb in Delhi but few know that within the Nizamuddin area there lies the Isa Khan’s Garden Tomb.

The Isa Khan Garden Tomb, Delhi

Though much smaller in size as compared to the Humayun Tomb it is a beautiful structure which actually predates Humayun Tomb by 20 years. It was built in 1547 AD during the lifetime of Isa Khan himself. Isa Khan was a noble in the court of Sher Shah Suri. It is probably the only surviving octagonal tomb complex. The canopied structure has beautiful glazed tiles and lattice screens (also known as Jaali) . Within this complex there is a red sandstone mosque that adds to its beauty. Like the Humayun Tomb this structure is also being maintained by the Aga Khan Trust and the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI).

Isa Khan Tomb in the foreground and the Mosque in the background

The Isa Khan Tomb complex is surrounded by beautiful gardens and high walls. In fact one can walk on these high walls which provide a much better view of the tomb and the mosque. Inside the structure I saw that like Humayun tomb this also contained not only the grave of Isa Khan but also several other graves as well. The lattice screens provide light as well as allow cool breeze inside.

The graves inside the Isa Khan complex - also observe the lattice screens

The inside of the dome has been painted by beautiful art work and also writings in Persian. Likewise the arches of the gates are also beautifully decorated.

The fresco on the inside of the dome of Isa Khan Tomb

The Isa Khan Tomb complex is a quieter and more beautiful place than its world renowned neighbour and is a worth seeing place if you are interested in gardens and Mughal and Lodhi architecture. It is part of the World Heritage Site Complex of Humayun Tomb.

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Places to Visit in Delhi: Humayun Tomb
Places to visit in Delhi: Ugrasen ki Baoli
The Changing Moods of Hauz Khas Lake

Places to visit in Delhi: Ugrasen ki Baoli

Baoli (a stepwell) were a very common feature as a means of water harvesting and conservation system in north India in the earlier times as the rains are seasonal and therefore storage of water for leaner periods were essential.

Ugrasen ki Baoli with modern buildings of central Delhi in the background

Even in Delhi there used to be several stepwells and but most of them have either vanished are or in utter state of disrepair. However, the Ugrasen ki Baoli (also pronounced sometimes as Agrasen ki Baoli) has survived and is maintained by the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) right in the central Delhi very close to the Connaught Place.

The arches of Agrasen ki Baoli

I have been to the Max Mueller Bhavan several times but was not aware that from there this stepwell is less than five minute walk away! It is kind of hidden as it is on a side road on the Hailey Road with tall multi-storied buildings of Central Delhi forming a backdrop. The entrance is very ordinary but the moment you step in the place really amazes you with its beauty.

The reflection of author, Baoli & the modern buildings

This 60 meter long and 15 meter wide stepwell is said to have been built by King Ugrasen who was an Agarwal leader. The architecture is late Tughlak and Lodhi period. It has very thick side walls and has arched corridors. There is an ancient mosque on the same premises but I could not go in as it was undergoing maintenance at the time I had visited it. Even the stepwell was under maintenance due to which I could not go down and had to content myself with seeing it from top.

The mosque at the Agrasen Stepwell complex

Now stepwells are not made as with technology people have other means of storage and supply of water. But I have had the opportunity to visit a modern stepwell in Jodhpur made recently. It is very beautiful and is able to supply all the water required the year round to the beautifully maintained gardens.

The baoli has very thick side walls

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Ali Gosh Khan Baoli in Farrukhnagar
Umaid Heritage:Water Conservation with Beauty

Places to Visit in Delhi: Humayun Tomb

It is well-known that Taj Mahal borrowed its design to a large extent from the Humayun Tomb in Delhi. What differentiates the two is the pristine white marble of Taj Mahal.

The Humayun Tomb, Delhi

Another important but little-known difference is that Taj Mahal was made by the Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan in memory of his beloved wife whereas Humayun Tomb was built during 1565 to 1572 AD in memory of Emperor Humayun by his widow Hamida Bano Begum.

The main tomb is that of Humayun

This 47 meter high mausoleum structure was built on a 12000 square meter platform and has over 100 graves including, of course, that of Humayun. The mausoleum is surrounded by Char Bagh (four geometrical gardens in Persian style).

The Humayun Tomb has well maintained gardens on all sides

The structures and the gardens have been painstakingly restored by the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) and Agha Khan Trust and they seem to have done a good job. Some of the restoration work is still going on. This is an UNESCO World Heritage site.

One of the magnificent arches of Humayun Tomb

During and immediately after partition the complex was used as a camp for refugees. During that time the complex suffered lot of damage which took the ASI quite some time to restore.

Humayun Tomb is a World Heritage Site 

Just behind the grand structure is a historical Gurudwara, Gurudwara Dam Dama Sahib whose onion-style dome is visible from the complex.

Carvings on the interior-side of the dome of Humayun Tomb

Inside the structure there are several sandstone screens which look beautiful, provide light and cool air and during summers it is a relief to be inside this building from the outside soaring temperatures.

A sandstome screen

There is a separate structure called Nai-ka-Gumbad for the royal barber. A person who is allowed to touch and cut the Emperor’s precious hair, has to be, by definition, immensely trustworthy. He probably passed on the palace gossip to the Emperor while massaging his scalp. No wonder he gets an exclusive resting place close to that of his master!

Nai ka Gumbad

Humayun Tomb was built by artisans brought all the way from Persia (today Iran). They knew their trade except that the stairs are as treacherous as ever. I wonder if it was deliberate!

The stairs at the Humayun Tomb are very steep

These artisans lived in the complex in what is today called Arab-ki-Sarai.

Arab-ki-Sarai Gateway

There are Gateways which are 48 foot high. A major portion of the Arab-ki-Sarai is either in ruins or has been taken over by an Industrial Training Institute. Though I could see conservation work on its Southern Gateway but on the main premises not much has been done. In this premises there is a well and a stepwell though both are not in good condition and the water collected there was green due to algae formation.

Arab-ki-Sarai where the artisans from Persia lived

Why is there no cafeteria and no souvenir shop in this important place visited by so many foreign and local tourists? 

Chui Mal Ka Talaab in Nuh

Chui Mal ka Taalab is a masonry pond with cenotaphs located in the town of Nuh in the Mewat district of Haryana.

Chui Mal ka Talaab (pond), Nuh

Adjoining it is a grand two-storied structure, the Cenotaph of Seth Chui Mal. Both the pond and the Samadhi (memorial) have been built around the same time by Chui Mal. Of course the tomb in the structure was placed after his death by his son.

The pond in the foreground & the Cenotaph of Chui Mal in the background

The pond has eight cenotaphs around it and looks picturesque. During my talks with the owners of the property (no, it is not under State Government or the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) but privately owned by the descendants of Chui Mal) I was told that all the burj (the structure beneath the Chattri or the cenotaph) have wells underneath and therefore there is always water in the pond.

Another view of the Pond of Chui Mal in Nuh

Also during Monsoons the pond gets filled with water flowing from nearby areas. But this is changing as now people have cut plots around this place.

The beautiful pond littered with polybags

Unfortunately the open area is subjected to decay and misuse. There are plastic bags in the pond and as usual locals have scribbled their names on the cenotaphs.

A well at Chui Mal ka Talaab filled with plastic bags

I think it is imperative that the heritage properties, the Cenotaph of Chui Mal as well as the Chui Mal ka Talaab, are taken over by the State Government or ASI for despite the best intentions, the Chui Mal family cannot be expected to maintain sites in the long run as that is a skilled and expensive task.

The view of the Chui Mal ka Talaab in the background with Chattri of the memorial of Chui Mal in the foreground

Both the cenotaphs and the masonry pond are worth seeing places. Offbeat places have a charm of their own. These are sightseeing places for Delhlites and Gurgaonites looking for an outing over the weekend.

This post is part of Skywatch Friday.

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The Cenotaph of Chui Mal in Nuh
Water Tank at City Palace, Alwar
Cenotaph of Bakhtawar Singh of Alwar