Sunday 13 October 2024

Places to Visit in Bhutan: Punakha Dzong

At the Punkha Dzong, Bhutan

Punakha is a stunning valley in Bhutan that offers a unique blend of natural beauty, rich history, and spirituality. Punakha is located in the western part of Bhutan, approximately 77 kilometers northeast of Thimphu, the capital city and 125 kms from Paro, the nearest International Airport. The valley is situated at an altitude of 1,200 meters above sea level and the climate is mild and temperate, with warm summers and mild winters.

Punakha is home to numerous iconic landmarks and attractions that display its rich cultural heritage like the Punakha Dzong, Chimi Lhakhang, Khamsum Yulley Namgyal Chorten, Punakha Suspension Bridge etc.

Confluence of Pho Chhu & Mo Chhu rivers adjacent to Punakha Dzong

Perched strategically at the confluence of the Pho Chhu (male river) and Mo Chhu (female river) rivers, Punakha Dzong is one of the most iconic and revered landmarks in Bhutan. (Dzongs or forts are typically Bhutanese and Tibetan architecture and normally have a mix of fort and monastery within it) After the confluence of these two rivers, the main river is known as Puna Tsang chu.

The majestic Punakha Dzong

This majestic fortress monastery, also known as Pungtang Dechen Photrang Dzong (Palace of Great Happiness), is a testament to the country's rich history, spirituality, and architectural prowess. Built in 1637 by Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal, the founder of Bhutan, Punakha Dzong served as the administrative and religious centre of the region. The Punakha Dzong played a pivotal role in the country's unification and has been the seat of Bhutan's government until 1955 when the capital moved to Thimphu.

Punakha Dzong is an exemplary example of Bhutanese architecture, displaying a unique blend of Buddhist and Tibetan influences. The dzong with walls up to 3 meters thick is reinforced with heavy wooden beams.

A vibrant courtyard at Punakha Dzong

The dzong's architecture is a testament to Bhutanese craftsmanship. Its intricate designs, vibrant colours, ornate carvings, and imposing structure are a remarkable sight.

 

Steep stairs at the entrance of the Punakha Dzong

The stairs at the entrance to the Dzong are extremely steep and one has to climb or descend carefully in order not to fall. Probably the steepness (probably they can be removed also) is for safety purposes as this is a fort.

One of the courtyards inside Punakha Dzong

The Punakha Dzong has a six-story central tower housing sacred relics and murals depicting Buddhist mythology including the Rangjung Kharsapani (Self-Created Image of Avalokiteshvara). It has twenty-one temples dedicated to various deities and Buddhist masters. 

Inside one of the temples at Punakha Dzong

In addition, it is home to over 500 monks, who reside and study within the Dzong's premises. The courtyards have intricate stone carvings and murals. The Dzong also serves as Administrative offices as though it is no longer the capital but as a District, it still has some administrative offices inside the complex.

In 1994, a devastating flood severely damaged the Punakha Dzong. A meticulous restoration project, undertaken by the Bhutanese government and international organizations, ensured the structure's integrity and authenticity. For example, the bridge you see over the river has been reconstructed with the financial and technical assistance of Germany.

The reconstructed bridge at Punakha Dzong

Dress modestly and remove shoes when visiting temples and monasteries. Persons wearing shorts, skirts, T-shirts without collars etc maybe denied entry.

Punakha Dzong is a truly remarkable place that offers a glimpse into Bhutan's rich history and culture. Its majestic architecture, stunning location, and historical significance make it a must-visit destination for any traveller exploring this Himalayan kingdom.

Also read:

Bhutan's Iconic Tiger's Nest: A Trek Through History and Breathtaking Vistas 


Dochula Pass: A Scenic Gateway to Bhutan

Wednesday 18 September 2024

Dochula Pass: A Scenic Gateway to Bhutan

At the Druk Wangyal Chortens, Dochula Pass, Bhutan

Tucked away in the majestic Himalayas, Dochula Pass is a hidden gem that offers a glimpse into Bhutan's stunning natural beauty and rich cultural heritage. Located at an altitude of 10,130 feet above sea level, this mountain pass is a must-visit destination for travellers seeking adventure, serenity, and spiritual enlightenment.

 

Winding road to Dochula Pass in Bhutan

Dochula Pass is situated in the Thimphu district of Bhutan, approximately 30 kilometers east of the capital city, Thimphu. The pass is easily accessible by road, and the scenic drive from Thimphu takes around 1.5 hours. I visited the Dochula Pass twice, first on way from Thimpu to Punakha and then again while going from Punakha to Paro. Both the times, as I had gone in July the Pass was mostly enveloped in clouds so there was no clear view of the surrounding mountains but then the clouds made the place more mystical & serene. For one to get the views of the nearby mountain ranges the best time is from March to May or September to November.

  

Approach to Druk Wangyal Chortens from Punakha

As you ascend to Dochula Pass, the landscape transforms into a breathtaking tapestry of rolling hills, towering mountains, and verdant forests. The pass is surrounded by the majestic Himalayas, with the highest peak, Masanggang (7,158 meters), visible on a clear day. The area is home to a diverse range of flora and fauna, including rare species of birds, animals, and plants.

 

The 108 Stupas at Dochula Pass, Bhutan

One of the most striking features of Dochula Pass is the 108 memorial stupas or chortens, built to commemorate the Bhutanese soldiers who lost their lives in the 2003 war against insurgents. The stupas, known as "Druk Wangyal Chortens," are beautifully crafted and offer a reminder of the country's history and bravery.


The Chortens and the path for circumambulation, Dochula Pass, Bhutan 

 There is a path for circumambulation of the stupas. For the non-initiated please note that the circumambulation is always done clockwise in Buddhism. Only in Bon religion the circumambulation is done anti clockwise (Bon Monastery in Himachal). Each stupa also has a further four miniature paintings of various Buddhist Gurus.

Chorten with miniature painting of a Guru 

In Buddhism, the number 108 holds significant spiritual and symbolic meaning. The number 108 represents the completion of a cycle or a journey, symbolizing spiritual fulfillment and enlightenment; 108 is believed to bring abundance and prosperity, as it is a multiple of 9, which represents growth and expansion; 108 is often associated with spiritual growth, representing the many stages and challenges one must overcome on the path to enlightenment.

 

Miniature 108 Stupas at a roadside in Bhutan

Across Bhutan one sees miniature stupas (mostly in multiples of 9 and 108 at several places) placed by devotees next to a precipitous road.

Beautiful view of Druk Namgyal Chortens from top at Dochula Pass, Bhutan

In Mahayana Buddhism, a Bodhisattva takes 108 vows to attain enlightenment and help others achieve liberation. In Tibetan Buddhism, many mantras and recitations are repeated 108 times to purify the mind and accumulate merit. A traditional Buddhist rosary, called a mala, typically has 108 beads, used for counting recitations of mantras or prayers.


View of the 108 Stupas at the Dochula Pass from top
 

Near the stupas stands the Druk Wangyal Lhakhang, a beautiful temple built to honour the fourth king of Bhutan, Jigme Singye Wangchuck.

Druk Wangyal Chortens & surrounding area at Dochula Pass

 Also next to the stupas there is a well-maintained park having good flora and fauna. There are nine man made cave temples with each devoted to a separate Guru. Carry a binocular if you are interested in bird watching here.

Also read:

Wednesday 24 July 2024

Bhutan's Iconic Tiger's Nest: A Trek Through History and Breathtaking Vistas

Tiger's Nest or Taktsang Monastery, Paro, Bhutan

Imagine a monastery clinging impossibly to a sheer cliff face. That's the Taktsang Monastery also popularly known as the Tiger's Nest, Bhutan's iconic landmark. It is majestically perched precariously on a cliff, 3,000 meters above the Paro Valley. This revered Buddhist site is one of Bhutan's most iconic and awe-inspiring attractions, drawing visitors from around the world.

The Tiger's Nest as seen near the start of the trail.

On the day of my trek I woke up to a rainy day so I decided to first visit the Rinpung Dzong (Dzong means fortress) in Paro and then make a decision, if the rain stops, to go for the Tiger’s Nest trek as else the trek may be slippery and slushy. By the time I reached the starting point of the trek at 10:30 AM it had stopped raining. It kept drizzling intermittently which actually made the trek pleasant as it brought down the temperatures.

Paro Valley as seen from the Tiger's Nest Trail

The journey to Tiger's Nest begins with a scenic hike through lush forests and along winding trails. The climb is moderately challenging, but the stunning views of the valley below and the monastery above make every step worthwhile. The trek to the Taktsang is ten kms to and fro. The Paro town is at 2200 Meters while the Taktsang Monastery is at 2950 meters so you have to ascend nearly 800 meters or nearly 2500 feet. One should keep the whole day reserved for this trek as it may take up to eight hours for the journey, including about 1.5 hours inside the temples. One can rent a walking stick if need be at the starting point. Alternatively, take a pony up to half way. Beyond that, the ponies are not allowed. Foreigners are required to pay a fee of Ngultrum  1000 (or one can pay in Indian currency as the same is accepted all over Bhutan.)

Waterfall near Tiger's Nest

If you are lucky then you can see the Tiger’s Nest most of the way or sometimes it is not visible at all until you reach it depending upon the weather conditions. With me, it played hide, seek most of the way, and kept showing itself intermittently.

The trek and waterfall near Tiger's Nest

Just before the final decent and ascent of stairs, before you reach the Tiger’s Nest is a huge waterfall enhancing the beauty of the place.

Taktsang has nine temples

Dedicated to Guru Rinpoche, the Tiger's Nest houses sacred shrines and offers a glimpse into Bhutanese Buddhism. The monastery's origins date back to the 8th century when Guru Rinpoche, a revered Buddhist master, is said to have meditated in a cave here. According to legend, he arrived on the back of a tigress, hence the name "Tiger's Nest." Over the centuries, the monastery has been rebuilt and expanded, with the current structure dating back to 1692. There are nine temples within the complex. Visitors are only allowed upto the eighth temple and the ninth temple is open to Bhutanese persons only. The cave is still there and I only saw it partly as entry inside is risky because of steep stairs and possibility of accident and therefore entry is restricted.

Perched on a Cliff- Tiger's Nest

As you approach the monastery, you'll be struck by its sheer scale and majesty. The temples contain intricate murals, statues, and shrines. The atmosphere is serene and peaceful, with monks and nuns going about their daily rituals. Photography inside the temple is not permitted. Also one is required to be dressed modestly else the entry will not be permitted. T-shirts are permitted if they have collars. Shorts, skirts etc are not allowed. Unlike some other religions one is required to keep the head uncovered and shoes are not allowed inside the temple complex.

The first clear view of the Tiger's Nest

The view of Tiger's Nest and Paro Valley, Bhutan

It is advisable to carry plenty of drinking water, snacks etc as there is not much available on the route with only one point where these are available (mid-way).

Lush Green Forest and Flowers - on way to Tiger's Nest

For foreigners having a guide is mandatory for the duration of your stay in Bhutan. Also, there is a Sustainable Development Tax. For Indians this has been kept at Ngultrum 1200 per person per day. For others the SDT is higher.  Indians don’t need a Visa but it is advisable to carry the Passport as entry permit is stamped on the Passport. Though some agencies would tell you that the Indian Voter Card is acceptable but invariably it creates some issues so my advice is carry the Passport.

Flowers in bloom - Tiger's Nest trail

Tiger's Nest is an unforgettable experience, offering breath-taking views, rich history, and a glimpse into Bhutan's unique culture. As you stand before this majestic landmark, you'll understand why it's considered one of the most sacred and iconic sites in the Himalayas. It's a challenging yet rewarding experience that combines stunning scenery and rich history.